Vegan & Plant-Based12 min read·Updated 26 March 2026

The Complete Guide to Vegan Baking: Every Egg and Dairy Substitute Tested

Vegan baking is no longer the land of dense, gummy cakes. With the right substitutes and techniques, plant-based baking can equal — and sometimes surpass — conventional results. Here's everything you need to know.

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For years, vegan baking had a reputation problem. The cakes were dense. The cookies were gummy. The muffins had a strange aftertaste. This reputation was largely deserved — early vegan baking relied on insufficient or poorly chosen substitutes.

Today, that reputation is obsolete. A combination of better understanding of the functional roles of eggs and dairy in baking, and the emergence of excellent substitutes (aquafaba, oat milk, cultured plant-based butters), means that vegan baking can produce results indistinguishable from conventional baking — and in some applications, superior ones.

This guide covers the functional science of each ingredient, every major substitute option, and when to use which.

Understanding What Eggs Actually Do in Baking

Before you can substitute eggs effectively, you need to understand why they're in the recipe. Eggs perform multiple distinct functions:

**Structure (protein coagulation):** Egg proteins denature and set during baking, providing structure. Custards, cheesecakes and egg-heavy cakes rely on this. The best substitute here is silken tofu (blended smooth) or a commercial egg replacer like JUST Egg.

**Leavening (emulsification + air incorporation):** When beaten, eggs trap air bubbles that expand during baking. Aquafaba (the liquid from canned chickpeas) is the gold standard here — it whips to stiff peaks like egg white and performs identically in meringues, macarons, mousses and sponge cakes. 3 tablespoons of aquafaba = 1 whole egg; 2 tablespoons = 1 egg white.

**Binding (protein network):** Eggs hold ingredients together. For binding in cookies, pancakes and burgers: flax egg (1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water, rest 5 min) or chia egg (same ratio with chia seeds). Both form a gel that binds effectively.

**Moisture:** Eggs contribute significant moisture. Adding a tablespoon of extra plant milk to vegan batters compensates for this.

**Fat and richness (yolk):** Egg yolks contribute fat and emulsifying phospholipids. Sunflower oil plus a pinch of black salt (kala namak — a sulphurous salt that mimics egg flavour) can replicate this element.

💡 Pro Tip

The most important vegan baking rule: identify which function eggs serve in your specific recipe before choosing a substitute. A meringue needs aquafaba; a chocolate chip cookie needs a flax egg; a custard needs silken tofu. No single substitute works universally.

Dairy Substitutes: Milk, Butter and Cream

**Plant milks in baking:** The good news: most plant milks perform very similarly to cow's milk in baking. The key properties are fat content and protein content, which affect browning and texture. • **Oat milk** — the most neutral flavour, good fat and protein profile, excellent in cakes, muffins and pancakes. Barista versions (higher protein, added oil) are ideal. • **Soy milk** — highest protein content of plant milks; best for recipes where browning and structure matter. Good for bread, yorkshire puddings and creamy sauces. • **Full-fat coconut milk** — significantly higher fat, ideal for whipped cream, ganaches, ice cream and tropical-flavoured bakes. Can overwhelm delicate flavours. • **Almond milk** — lower fat and protein; acceptable in lighter applications but may produce slightly drier results in cakes. • **For buttermilk:** Add 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar or lemon juice to 240ml plant milk. Leave 5 minutes to curdle. This acidulation activates bicarbonate of soda in the recipe and produces the tenderising acidity of conventional buttermilk.

**Plant-based butter:** • Block-style vegan butters (e.g., Miyoko's, Flora Plant, Country Crock Plant Butter) perform very closely to conventional butter in baking due to their fat content and structure. Tub/spreadable versions contain more water — not appropriate for pastry. • For creaming (incorporating air into butter and sugar), vegan block butter works identically. • For laminated pastries (croissant, puff), high-fat European-style vegan butters are available and work well.

**Cream alternatives:** • Whipped coconut cream: refrigerate full-fat coconut milk overnight; scoop the solidified cream layer and whip with an electric mixer. Achieves real peaks; use in lieu of whipped cream. • Oat cream or soy cream: good for custards, ganaches and sauce. Less whippable but excellent cooked.

Aquafaba may be the most important discovery in vegan cooking in the past decade. That chickpea water, long discarded, can replicate the functional properties of egg white almost perfectly is genuinely remarkable.

J. Kenji López-Alt, The Food Lab

Vegan Baking: Common Problems and Solutions

**Problem: Dense, heavy cake** Cause: Insufficient leavening or wrong egg substitute for the application. Solution: In cakes where eggs provide lift, use aquafaba AND increase bicarbonate soda by 25%. A small addition of apple cider vinegar (1 tsp per 240ml plant milk) enhances leavening.

**Problem: Gummy texture** Cause: Too much flax or chia egg, or overmixing after adding wet ingredients. Solution: Use no more than 1 flax/chia egg per recipe unless the recipe specifically requires more. Mix batter only until just combined.

**Problem: Doesn't hold together / falls apart** Cause: Insufficient binding. Eggs provide a protein network that holds baked goods together. Solution: Add 1–2 tablespoons of tapioca starch to the batter (it gels on heating and provides strong binding). Or use chia egg rather than flax — chia produces a slightly stronger gel.

**Problem: Pale top / poor browning** Cause: Lack of Maillard reaction from egg proteins and milk sugars. Solution: Brush tops with a mixture of maple syrup + plant milk before baking. Or add 1 tablespoon of agave syrup to the batter for improved browning.

💡 Pro Tip

For the most reliable vegan cake, start with a recipe specifically developed as vegan rather than trying to directly substitute a conventional recipe. The ratios and techniques in well-developed vegan recipes are already optimised — substitution retrofitting is harder.

Master Recipes to Demonstrate Vegan Baking Techniques

**Perfect Vegan Chocolate Cake:** Dry: 200g plain flour, 200g sugar, 60g cocoa, 1 tsp bicarb, ½ tsp salt Wet: 240ml oat milk + 1 tbsp ACV (leave 5 min to curdle), 120ml neutral oil, 2 tsp vanilla, 120ml hot coffee (amplifies chocolate flavour) Method: Combine dry. Combine wet. Fold together until just combined. Bake 180°C / 30–35 min. The coffee + ACV combination produces exceptional rise and fudgy texture.

**Aquafaba Meringues:** 120ml aquafaba (from 1 tin of chickpeas — use the unsalted variety), ½ tsp cream of tartar (stabilises the foam), 150g caster sugar, 1 tsp vanilla Method: Whip aquafaba + cream of tartar to soft peaks (~5 min). Gradually add sugar, beating to stiff glossy peaks (~10 min total). Pipe or spoon onto lined trays. Bake at 100°C for 1.5–2 hours. Cool in the oven. Results: crisp, light, and indistinguishable from egg meringues in a blind tasting.

**Vegan Shortcrust Pastry:** 200g plain flour, 100g cold vegan block butter (cubed), 2–3 tbsp ice water, pinch of salt Method: Rub butter into flour to breadcrumb stage. Add ice water 1 tbsp at a time until dough just comes together. Rest 30 minutes in the fridge. Behaves identically to conventional shortcrust.

Key Takeaways

Vegan baking in 2026 is genuinely excellent. Aquafaba for meringues, flax egg for cookies, oat milk for almost everything, and block-style vegan butter for pastry — these substitutes are not compromises, they're solutions. The techniques differ slightly, but the results can be extraordinary. The best vegan baking is baking developed as vegan from the start, not retrofitted from conventional recipes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does vegan baking taste different?
When done well: not noticeably. Blind tastings of well-made vegan chocolate cake, cookies and meringues frequently show no significant preference for the conventional version. Where vegan baking still lags is in very butter-forward applications (pure butter shortbreads, classic croissants) where the specific flavour of dairy fat is central — here, you will notice a difference, though products are still good.
Is aquafaba from every tin of chickpeas the same?
No — liquid consistency varies between brands and between salted and unsalted varieties. Unsalted chickpea liquid (sodium-free) whips more reliably and to greater volume. If your aquafaba isn't whipping, try a different brand, ensure your bowl is completely grease-free (even a trace of fat prevents aquafaba whipping), and add cream of tartar (½ tsp per 120ml) to stabilise.
Can I make vegan croissants?
Yes, with high-quality European-style vegan block butter (high fat, low water). Brands like Miyoko's or specific 'beurrage' vegan butters designed for lamination produce excellent layered results. The technique is identical to conventional laminated dough — the butter needs to be cold and pliable for successful lamination. The result is genuinely good, though subtly different from dairy croissants in flavour.