Bicol Express

About This Recipe

Bicol Express was named after the passenger train that ran from Manila to Bicol, a region in southeastern Luzon famous for two things: the perfect cone of Mayon Volcano and the love of fiery, coconut-rich food. The dish was created in Malate, Manila in the 1970s by a cook from Bicol who adapted a traditional Bicolano pork and chili dish for Manila audiences. The name references both the train and the speed with which it arrives — like a train, the heat of the chilies hits you fast. Despite its reputation for heat, Bicol Express has become beloved nationwide and is now a staple of Filipino cuisine.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 500 gpork belly(cut into small cubes)
• 400 mlcoconut milk
• 200 mlcoconut cream
• 10 wholelong green chilies (siling haba)(sliced)
• 5 wholebird's eye chilies (siling labuyo)(or to taste)
• 3 tbspbagoong (fermented shrimp paste)
• 1 largeonion(diced)
• 4 clovesgarlic(minced)
• 1 tbspvegetable oil

Instructions

1. 1

   Render the pork

   Fry pork belly in oil until fat is rendered and edges begin to brown.

2. 2

   Add aromatics

   Add onion and garlic. Cook until softened. Add bagoong and stir to coat the pork.

3. 3

   Add coconut milk

   Add coconut milk, both types of chilies. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. 4

   Finish with cream

   Add coconut cream. Simmer 10 more minutes until the sauce is thick and rich and oil begins to separate.

Variations

• •

  Use laing (taro leaves with pork) for the original Bicolano version

• •

  Add shrimp instead of pork belly

• •

  Vegetarian: swap the protein for roasted king oyster mushrooms, smoked tofu or cooked chickpeas — adjust seasoning slightly upward to compensate.

• •

  Spicier: add a finely chopped fresh chile or a teaspoon of crushed Aleppo/Urfa pepper to the aromatics for warm, layered heat instead of a single sharp hit.

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated and improves overnight. Reheat gently.

Frequently Asked Questions