Kebab koobideh are Iran's most iconic grilled skewers: seasoned ground lamb and beef blended with grated onion and turmeric, moulded onto flat swords and grilled until charred and juicy.
Koobideh (Ϊ©Ψ¨Ψ§Ψ¨ Ϊ©ΩΨ¨ΫΨ―Ω), from the Persian 'to pound', is the national kebab of Iran β the one prepared at every chelo kababi (kebab restaurant), at backyard grills, and at Friday family lunches across the country. Unlike Turkish shish kebab or Arab kofta, koobideh is distinguished by its specific blend of 30% lamb fat mixed into the ground beef-and-lamb mixture, the technique of grating onion finely (not chopping) and squeezing out most of its juice before incorporating it (so the mixture stays firm enough to adhere to the flat wide skewers called shampoor), and the characteristic ridged, elongated form created by pressing the meat down the skewer with wet fingers. The mixture is seasoned with turmeric, black pepper, and sometimes a hint of saffron β no excessive spice β allowing the quality of the meat and the char from the grill to be the hero. Koobideh is served on a bed of saffron-butter basmati rice (chelo) with grilled whole tomatoes alongside, finished with a knob of butter, a dusting of sumac, and raw onion rings. The combination is one of the most satisfying flavour systems in all of Persian cuisine.
Serves 4
Grate the onion on the fine side of a box grater. Place in a clean cloth and squeeze out as much juice as possible. The onion should be almost dry. This step is critical β wet onion prevents the meat from adhering to the skewer.
Combine ground lamb, ground beef, squeezed grated onion, turmeric, pepper, salt, and baking soda in a large bowl. Mix vigorously with your hands for 3β4 minutes until the mixture becomes a cohesive, sticky paste. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours (or overnight).
The mixture must be properly cold and sticky before skewering, or it will slide off the skewer on the grill.
With wet hands, take a portion of meat (about 120g). Press it around a flat wide metal skewer (shampoor), forming a cylinder 15β18cm long. Press lengthwise ridges into the meat with your fingers β these help the meat cook evenly and provide the characteristic texture. Refrigerate shaped skewers for 30 minutes.
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to very high heat. Grill the koobideh directly over the heat, turning every 2 minutes, for 8β10 minutes total until charred in spots but still juicy inside. Grill the tomatoes alongside, turning, until charred and soft.
Do not use a fork to test β pierce with the skewer tip or press gently. Koobideh should be cooked through but never dry.
Slide the koobideh off the skewers onto a bed of saffron butter rice (chelo). Add grilled tomatoes alongside. Top with a knob of butter that melts over the meat, dust with sumac, and serve with raw onion rings.
Use flat wide metal skewers (shampoor) β round skewers cannot support the koobideh and the meat slides off. Flat skewers are available from Middle Eastern or barbecue supply shops.
Squeezing all the juice from the grated onion is the single most important step β residual moisture causes the meat to steam rather than grill and fall off the skewer.
Let the shaped skewers rest in the fridge for at least 30 minutes before grilling to firm up β rushing this step is the most common cause of koobideh falling apart.
Jujeh koobideh: use ground chicken with the same seasoning for a lighter version.
Koobideh in a pan: if you don't have a grill, cook on a very hot ridged grill pan in 2 tbsp oil β the char will be less dramatic but the flavour excellent.
Raw shaped skewers keep in the fridge for up to 24 hours or can be frozen. Cooked koobideh is best eaten immediately; reheat gently in a hot pan rather than microwave to avoid drying out.
Kebab koobideh derives its name from the Persian verb kubidan (to pound), referring to the historical practice of pounding meat in a mortar before seasoning and grilling β a method documented in Persian cookbooks from the Safavid period (16thβ18th century). The modern ground-meat-on-flat-skewer form developed in the early 20th century as mechanical meat grinders became widespread in Iran. Today koobideh is Iran's most widely recognised culinary export and appears on menus in Iranian diaspora restaurants globally.
Two reasons: the onion juice was not fully squeezed out (adding moisture that prevents adhesion), or the meat mixture was not cold and firm enough before grilling. Refrigerate the shaped skewers for at least 30 minutes before they go on the grill.
Yes. Use a very hot ridged cast-iron grill pan with a little oil. The char marks and aroma won't be as dramatic as charcoal, but the kebabs will be delicious. You can also broil them in the oven very close to the grill element at maximum heat for 4 minutes per side.
At least 20% fat overall is essential β lean meat produces dry, crumbly koobideh. The traditional ratio is 70% beef (80/20) and 30% fatty lamb. If your ground lamb is lean, add 2 tbsp softened butter or lamb tail fat (dombeh) to the mixture.
Per serving (320g / 11.3 oz) Β· 4 servings total
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