
Borneo's prawn-coconut noodle soup with sambal belacan, omelette ribbons, and tamarind brightness.
Sarawak laksa is the dish Anthony Bourdain famously called 'breakfast of the gods'. It comes from Kuching, the capital of Sarawak on Malaysian Borneo, and is utterly distinct from its better-known curry laksa or asam laksa cousins. The broth is a complex paste of dried shrimp, lemongrass, galangal, candlenuts, and sambal belacan, simmered with prawn stock and coconut milk into a smoky, savoury, lightly spicy soup — never as creamy or yellow as curry laksa. The bowl is built with rice vermicelli, poached prawns, shredded chicken, beansprouts, omelette ribbons, fresh cilantro, and a generous spoonful of extra sambal stirred in by the eater. A wedge of calamansi lime finishes the bowl. It is one of Southeast Asia's most balanced soups — savoury, sour, fragrant, hot, fresh.
Serves 6
Peel the shrimp, reserving heads and shells. In a wide pot, dry-fry the heads and shells over high heat, crushing them, until deep orange — about 5 minutes. Add water and simmer 30 minutes. Strain; you should have about 1.5 L.
Simmer the chicken breast in the strained stock for 15 minutes until just cooked. Lift out, cool, then shred.
Drain the soaked dried shrimp. Blend with shallots, garlic, lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, soaked chilies, candlenuts, and toasted belacan into a smooth, slightly wet paste, adding splashes of water as needed.
Heat oil in a wide pot. Add rempah and cook on medium-low, stirring constantly, for 15–20 minutes until the oil rises clearly to the top and the paste is fragrant, deep brick-red, and slightly jammy.
Pour the prawn stock into the fried paste. Add tamarind and palm sugar. Simmer 20 minutes. Taste and adjust — laksa should be savoury, slightly sweet, gently sour, with a low warmth, not a burn.
Stir in coconut milk and warm through; do not boil hard or it may split. Adjust salt.
Slide peeled prawns into the gently simmering broth. Cook 2 minutes until just opaque. Pull them out and reserve.
Place softened vermicelli in each warm bowl. Top with shredded chicken, prawns, beansprouts, omelette ribbons, and cilantro. Ladle the hot broth over.
Serve at once with a halved calamansi and a small dollop of extra sambal belacan on the rim of each bowl. The eater squeezes lime, stirs in the sambal, and adjusts the bowl to taste.
The paste must be fried until the oil clearly separates — this is the visual cue that the rempah is fully cooked.
Don't let the coconut milk boil after it's added — it will split and look broken.
Toast the belacan in a small pan or wrapped in foil until pungent and dry; it transforms the dish.
Use rice vermicelli with a side of rice cakes for a heartier version.
Vegetarian: replace prawn stock with kombu-shiitake stock and skip the belacan; substitute fermented black bean paste.
Add chinkiang vinegar for a Sino-Sarawak twist.
Refrigerate broth and toppings separately up to 3 days. Reassemble bowls fresh; never let the noodles sit in the broth.
Sarawak laksa evolved among the Hakka and Hokkien Chinese communities of Kuching in the early 20th century, layering Malay, Indonesian, and indigenous Dayak ingredients onto a Chinese noodle-soup framework. The famous Choon Hui Cafe was Anthony Bourdain's 2015 stop that launched it onto global radar.
Any Southeast Asian grocery; it comes in bricks of compressed fermented shrimp paste. Wrap tightly when not in use — the smell is potent.
Look for Sarawak-style pastes (not curry laksa). Brands like Foochow or Swallow are decent shortcuts. Bloom in oil 5 minutes before adding stock.
Per serving (520g / 18.3 oz) · 6 servings total
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