Thick-cut pork belly grilled tableside on a Korean BBQ grill, wrapped in lettuce with garlic, ssamjang and kimchi.
Samgyeopsal (삼겹살) — literally 'three-layer flesh' — refers to the thick, uncured pork belly slices that have become the centerpiece of Korean BBQ culture. Unlike Chinese or Vietnamese preparations of pork belly that involve long braises or marinades, samgyeopsal is grilled completely plain: thick slabs of fatty, layered pork are cooked directly on a tabletop cast iron or mesh grill, relying entirely on the natural richness of the pork fat rendering against high heat to create crackling-edged, juicy slices. The ritual of samgyeopsal is as important as the taste: diners take scissors to cut the cooked meat into bite-sized pieces at the grill, then assemble ssam wraps — a lettuce or perilla leaf filled with a piece of pork, a smear of ssamjang (the fiery, savory fermented paste blend), a sliver of raw garlic, a thread of green onion, and a sliver of kimchi — to be eaten in one satisfying bite. Accompanied by an array of banchan (small side dishes) and cold Korean beer or soju, samgyeopsal is a social eating experience as much as a recipe, and one of the defining culinary rituals of contemporary Korean life.
Serves 4
Mix doenjang, gochujang, sesame oil, sugar, minced garlic and sesame seeds together in a small bowl. Taste and adjust — it should be savory, slightly spicy and deeply umami.
Wash and dry lettuce leaves. Slice garlic. Cut green onions. Place kimchi in a small bowl. Arrange all accompaniments on the table around the grill.
Heat a cast iron griddle, Korean BBQ grill, or heavy skillet over high heat until very hot and beginning to smoke. No oil is needed — the pork fat provides all the lubrication.
A tabletop butane burner with a cast iron grill pan gives the most authentic result.
Place pork belly slices on the hot grill. Cook 3–4 minutes per side until well-browned and the fat is rendered and crisping at the edges. Cook garlic slices alongside the pork until golden.
Use kitchen scissors to cut the grilled pork into bite-sized pieces directly on the grill. Sprinkle with a tiny pinch of salt and a drop of sesame oil.
To eat: place a piece of pork on a lettuce leaf, add a smear of ssamjang, a slice of garlic, a piece of green onion and a bit of kimchi. Fold into a parcel and eat in one bite.
The pork belly should be at room temperature before grilling — cold pork won't render its fat properly and will steam instead of sear.
Use well-fermented, aged kimchi (older than 2 weeks) with samgyeopsal; fresh kimchi lacks the sour complexity that cuts through the fat.
Between batches, pour off excess rendered fat from the grill — too much pooled fat causes flare-ups and uneven cooking.
Kkwaegisal (pork jowl): a fattier, even more prized cut than pork belly, with a richer flavor and chewier texture.
Garlic samgyeopsal: marinate pork briefly in minced garlic, sesame oil and soy sauce before grilling for added flavor.
Grilled samgyeopsal is best eaten immediately. Raw pork belly slices can be refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen up to 1 month. Ssamjang keeps refrigerated for 2 weeks.
Pork belly grilling has been practiced in Korea for centuries, but samgyeopsal as a distinct restaurant and home-dining ritual became popular in the mid-20th century, particularly after the Korean War when pork production expanded. The tabletop grilling culture solidified through the 1970s and 1980s, and samgyeopsal restaurants (samgyeopsal-jip) became neighborhood institutions across Korea.
Ssamjang is a savory paste blended from doenjang and gochujang with sesame and garlic. Yes, bottled ssamjang is available at Korean grocery stores (CJ and Chungjungone make excellent versions) — homemade is fresher but the store-bought is very good.
A heavy cast iron skillet or griddle over high heat works very well. The key is getting the surface extremely hot before adding the pork — this creates the caramelized crust that makes samgyeopsal so good.
The grill likely is not hot enough, or the pork was cold from the refrigerator. Ensure the pan is preheated until lightly smoking, and let pork come to room temperature for 20 minutes before cooking.
Per serving (280g / 9.9 oz) · 4 servings total
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