The beloved noodles of Myanmar's Shan State: rice noodles in a tangy tomato broth with sesame oil, pork, and pickled vegetables.
Shan noodles (shan khao swe) are the signature dish of the Shan people, Myanmar's largest ethnic minority, and one of the most distinctive noodle preparations in all of Southeast Asia. Unlike the coconut-milk-forward noodle soups of neighboring Thailand and Laos, Shan noodles are served in a clear, tomato-based pork broth enriched with sesame oil, garlic oil, and a small amount of toasted sesame, producing a bright, tangy, nutty flavor profile entirely unlike its neighbors. The dish can be served wet (soup) or dry (mixed with sauce, soup on the side), and the dry version — in which noodles are tossed with sesame oil, soy sauce, tomato paste, and crispy garlic — is arguably the more popular. Both versions are served with pickled mustard greens, fresh scallions, and often a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds. In Taunggyi, the Shan State capital, noodle shops open before 6am and are crowded until the pots are empty.
Serves 4
Heat neutral oil in a small pan over low heat. Add minced garlic and fry very slowly 5-8 minutes until golden and fragrant. Do not let it darken past golden. Reserve garlic and oil separately.
In a pot, add stock and chopped tomatoes. Bring to a boil and simmer 15 minutes until tomatoes break down. Skim any foam.
Add soy sauce, fish sauce, turmeric, and half the garlic oil. Taste — it should be bright, tangy, and savory.
Bring broth to a gentle simmer. Add sliced pork and cook 5 minutes until just cooked through.
Slicing pork thinly ensures it cooks through quickly without toughening.
Drain cooked noodles well. Toss with remaining garlic oil, sesame oil, soy sauce, and a tablespoon of the tomato broth. Serve soup in a separate small bowl on the side.
Place cooked noodles in deep bowls. Ladle hot broth with pork over the noodles.
Top with pickled mustard greens, scallions, toasted sesame seeds, and chili flakes. Serve lime on the side.
The garlic oil is the most important flavor element in Shan noodles — take time to make it properly at low heat.
Dry-style Shan noodles (mixed, not in broth) are more common in Myanmar — try both and decide.
Pickled mustard greens are not optional — their acidity is what makes the dish coherent.
Chicken Shan noodles: replace pork with poached and shredded chicken thighs.
Vegetarian version: use mushroom broth and replace pork with deep-fried tofu.
Store broth and noodles separately. Broth keeps 3 days refrigerated. For dry noodles, dress just before serving — dressed noodles sitting become gluey.
Shan noodles originate in the Shan Plateau, a highland region of Myanmar bordering China, Thailand, and Laos that has its own distinct culture, language, and culinary traditions separate from lowland Bamar (Burman) cooking. The tomato and sesame combination reflects the Shan people's historical trade ties with Yunnan, China. Shan noodles became one of Myanmar's most popular national dishes during the 20th century as Shan migration to urban centers spread the dish throughout the country.
Shan noodles use a tomato-sesame broth that is lighter and more acidic than the coconut-milk-based mohinga or the heavy pork bone broth of other Myanmar noodles. The garlic oil and sesame character are distinctly Shan.
Both are authentic. The dry version (noodles tossed with garlic oil and sesame, broth on the side for sipping) is arguably more popular in Shan State; the soup version is more common elsewhere in Myanmar.
Flat medium-width rice noodles are traditional. Thin rice vermicelli also works. Avoid egg noodles — the wheat flavor competes with the sesame.
Per serving (440g / 15.5 oz) · 4 servings total
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