Mollejas al Asador (Grilled Sweetbreads)

About This Recipe

Mollejas — veal or beef thymus gland sweetbreads — are the crown jewel of the Argentine asado's first course (the achuras). For the uninitiated, they arrive as an irreversible conversion: crunchy, golden, slightly caramelised on the outside from the heat of the parrilla, with an interior that is impossibly creamy, almost milky, rich without being heavy. They are milder and more delicate than liver, without the iron punch of kidney. In Argentina, mollejas are treated with reverence: they are soaked in cold water to remove any blood, briefly parboiled to firm them for the grill, and then placed directly over hardwood embers for 30–40 minutes, basted with nothing but occasional salt and the camaraderie of patient cooking. The exterior forms a golden crust that crunches like well-cooked chicken skin. They are served with lemon and chimichurri while the larger cuts of beef are still hours from ready. Every parrillero worth their salt knows that mollejas, chorizos, and morcilla must arrive at the table first — they are the price of patience.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 800 gveal sweetbreads (thymus gland mollejas)
• 1 tbspwhite wine vinegar
• 1 tspsalt (for blanching water)
• 1.5 tbspcoarse sea salt
• 2lemons, cut in half
• 1 portionchimichurri(see asado recipe)
• 1 tspdried oregano

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak

   Place sweetbreads in a large bowl of cold water with the vinegar. Refrigerate 2–4 hours, changing the water twice, until the water runs mostly clear. This removes blood and produces a cleaner, paler result.

   Do not skip the soaking — unsoaked sweetbreads have a stronger, more glandular taste that divides opinion. Soaked mollejas are mild and accessible.

2. 2

   Blanch

   Drain and place sweetbreads in a saucepan with cold salted water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then simmer 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and immediately transfer to a bowl of iced water to stop cooking. Pat thoroughly dry.

3. 3

   Press (optional but traditional)

   Wrap blanched sweetbreads in a clean kitchen towel. Place a heavy pan on top. Refrigerate 30 minutes to firm them up and press out excess moisture — this produces a more even crust on the grill.

4. 4

   Prepare the grill

   Build hardwood coals to a medium-hot temperature (hold palm 15 cm away for 2–3 seconds). Clean grill grate thoroughly.

5. 5

   Season and grill

   Season sweetbreads generously with coarse salt and sprinkle with dried oregano. Place on the grill directly over coals. Cook without moving for 15–20 minutes until a deep golden crust forms and they release from the grate naturally.

6. 6

   Turn and finish

   Turn once. Grill the other side 10–15 more minutes until equally golden. The interior should be fully cooked (no pink) but still creamy, not rubbery.

7. 7

   Serve immediately

   Squeeze lemon over the sweetbreads and serve immediately with chimichurri. They must be eaten hot — they toughen quickly.

Variations

• •

  Mollejas a la plancha: cook on a hot griddle pan indoors with a splash of olive oil — equally good, less smoky.

• •

  Stuffed mollejas: slit and fill with a mixture of mozzarella and roasted capsicum before grilling.

Storage

Best eaten immediately; leftovers toughen significantly. If necessary, refrigerate up to 1 day and reheat under a very hot grill (not microwave) for 4 minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions