Tongyeong-style changsuk-juk — a luxuriously silky Korean abalone rice porridge from the South Sea coast, slow-cooked with sesame oil, soy, and the ocean's finest shellfish.
Juk (죽) — Korean rice porridge — is a category of slow-cooked, fully hydrated rice dishes that range from soothing sick-day food to elaborate ceremonial preparations. Changsuk-juk (전복죽), often called jeonbok-juk in standard Korean, is abalone porridge: arguably the most prized and expensive version, associated with Korean royal court cuisine, coastal healing traditions, and the seafood-rich waters of Korea's South Sea coast near Tongyeong (통영). Tongyeong — a coastal city in South Gyeongsang Province — is renowned throughout Korea as a seafood paradise. Its waters produce some of Korea's finest abalone (jeonbok), oysters, sea cucumbers, and shellfish. Abalone porridge from Tongyeong is prepared simply but with great attention: live abalone is cleaned, the viscera (liver) reserved separately, the muscle sliced and stir-fried briefly in sesame oil before rice and abalone stock are added and simmered low and slow until the rice breaks down into a silky, viscous porridge. The abalone liver, stirred in near the end, gives the porridge its distinctive green hue and deep oceanic flavor. At Korean coastal restaurants in Tongyeong, jeonbok-juk is served in stone bowls (dolsot) with an array of small banchan and is considered restorative — eaten after long boat rides, during hangover recovery, or as a strengthening meal for pregnant women and new mothers. It is a dish of profound simplicity: abalone, rice, sesame oil, and the sea.
Serves 4
If using live abalone: scrub the shell with a brush, then insert a sturdy spoon between the flesh and shell and pop the abalone out. Remove the intestines (the dark stomach sac), but reserve the liver (the green-grey viscera attached to the body). Clean the muscle thoroughly. If using frozen, thaw and drain; check for viscera if included.
The abalone liver is what gives jeonbok-juk its characteristic green color and deep umami flavor — do not discard it.
Slice abalone muscle thinly — about 5mm thick. Set liver aside separately.
Heat 2 tbsp sesame oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add sliced abalone and stir-fry 2 minutes until edges turn opaque. Do not fully cook — the abalone will cook further in the porridge.
Add soaked, drained rice to the pot with the abalone. Stir to coat with sesame oil. Pour in 1.5 litres of water or shellfish stock. Bring to a boil, then reduce to the lowest simmer.
Soaking the rice for 30 minutes reduces cooking time and helps the rice break down to the correct porridge consistency.
Simmer uncovered, stirring every 5–10 minutes to prevent sticking, for 35–40 minutes until the rice has fully broken down and the porridge has a silky, thick consistency. If it thickens too much before the rice is fully soft, add water in 100ml increments.
Roughly chop or mash the reserved abalone liver. Stir into the porridge. Cook 3 more minutes — the liver will turn the porridge green and deepen the oceanic flavor. Season with soy sauce and salt. Drizzle remaining 1 tbsp sesame oil over the top.
Ladle into bowls. Garnish with green onion, sesame seeds, and crumbled nori. Serve with small dishes of kimchi and seasoned vegetables alongside.
Do not discard the abalone liver — it is the single most important flavoring ingredient in authentic jeonbok-juk and is irreplaceable by any substitute.
Stir the porridge every 5–10 minutes throughout cooking to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom and scorching.
The correct consistency is silky and just pourable — thicker than soup, thinner than mashed potato. Add water if it thickens too much; simmer longer if too thin.
Frozen abalone (available at Korean grocery stores) is an acceptable and considerably more affordable substitute for live abalone in this dish.
Haemul-juk: substitute mixed seafood (shrimp, clams, squid) for abalone — a more accessible version of the same sesame-oil porridge technique.
Ganjang-gejang style addition: top the finished porridge with a spoonful of raw ganjang-gejang (soy-marinated raw crab) for a briny, luxurious contrast.
Mushroom juk: substitute shiitake and oyster mushrooms for abalone — a vegetarian version that still benefits from the sesame oil stir-fry technique.
Jeonbok-juk keeps refrigerated up to 2 days. It thickens considerably upon cooling — reheat with additional water, stirring frequently, until the desired consistency is restored. The flavor actually deepens overnight.
Abalone has been eaten in Korea since the Three Kingdoms period (57 BCE–668 CE), and records of jeonbok-juk appear in Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897) court cuisine documents, where it was served as a dish for royalty and the sick. The coastal city of Tongyeong in South Gyeongsang Province, with its exceptionally clean waters and rich marine ecosystem, became known as Korea's finest source of abalone. Today, jeonbok-juk restaurants line Tongyeong's waterfront, serving the porridge from morning using abalone harvested the same day by local haenyeo (female free divers).
Fresh live abalone is available at Korean seafood markets and some Asian fish markets. Frozen cleaned abalone (with viscera) is sold at Korean grocery stores in vacuum packs. Canned abalone also exists but produces a considerably less flavorful porridge than fresh or frozen. For the most authentic result, find a Korean grocery store with a live seafood tank.
You can, but the dish loses its characteristic green color and much of its depth. The porridge made only with muscle is still good — clean, savory, and delicate — but lacks the oceanic, slightly bitter complexity that defines authentic jeonbok-juk. If you cannot obtain liver, stir in 1 tsp of oyster sauce at the end as a partial flavor substitute.
Juk should be silky and just pourable — roughly the consistency of a thick Western cream soup. It holds its shape briefly in a spoon but flows when tipped. If your porridge is stiff enough to hold a spoon upright, add water and stir over heat to loosen. If it is too watery, simmer uncovered for 5–10 more minutes.
Per serving (450g / 15.9 oz) · 4 servings total
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