Umukai (Cook Islands Earth Oven Feast)

About This Recipe

The umu is the Cook Islands' version of the earth oven. Hot volcanic rocks are buried in a pit, food is wrapped in banana leaves, and everything steams and smokes for hours beneath layers of sacking and earth. The result is incomparably tender meat and vegetables with a subtle smoky flavour. This recipe adapts the method for a home oven.

Ingredients

Serves 6

• 1 wholefresh snapper or reef fish (about 1.5 kg), cleaned
• 4 mediumtaro roots, peeled and quartered
• 3 mediumsweet potatoes, halved
• 6 largebanana leaves (or foil), for wrapping
• 200 mlcoconut cream
• 2 tspsalt

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare parcels

   Preheat oven to 200 °C (390 °F). Season fish and vegetables with salt. Drizzle coconut cream over the fish. Wrap each item tightly in banana leaves or double-layered foil.

2. 2

   Arrange

   Place taro and sweet potato parcels on a large roasting tray. Lay the fish parcel on top.

3. 3

   Roast

   Bake for 80–90 minutes. Root vegetables are done when a skewer pierces them easily; the fish should flake cleanly.

4. 4

   Unwrap and feast

   Bring everything to the table still in their parcels. Unwrap at the table to release the fragrant steam. Serve with rukau and ika mata.

Variations

• •

  Include chicken pieces or pork ribs in additional parcels.

• •

  Add a layer of sliced coconut flesh inside the fish parcel.

• •

  Vegetarian: swap the protein for roasted king oyster mushrooms, smoked tofu or cooked chickpeas — adjust seasoning slightly upward to compensate.

• •

  Spicier: add a finely chopped fresh chile or a teaspoon of crushed Aleppo/Urfa pepper to the aromatics for warm, layered heat instead of a single sharp hit.

Storage

Refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 days. Reheat wrapped in foil in the oven.

Frequently Asked Questions