Cao Lầu (Hội An Pork Noodles)

About This Recipe

Cao lầu is the dish that defines the central Vietnamese trading town of Hội An — and locals will tell you, with absolute certainty, that authentic cao lầu can only be made there because the noodles require water from the town's ancient Bá Lễ well and ash from a specific tree (cajeput) on Chàm Island. The result is a noodle of remarkable character: thick, almost soba-like, faintly yellow, with a dense chewy bite unlike anything else in Vietnamese cuisine. The noodles are served warm but not in soup — just barely glistening with a sweet-savory five-spice pork jus, topped with thin slices of red-rimmed char siu-style barbecue pork (xá xíu), a mound of fresh greens (bean sprouts, basil, mint, lettuce), and a shower of crispy deep-fried noodle squares (also made from the cao lầu dough). A wedge of lime and a tiny saucer of chili sauce finish the bowl. The dish reflects Hội An's history as a port — the noodle technique probably descends from Japanese udon brought by 17th-century traders, the pork from Chinese influence, the herbs unmistakably Vietnamese.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 600 gpork shoulder, in one piece
• 3 tbspsoy sauce
• 2 tbspfish sauce
• 2 tbsphoisin sauce
• 1 tbsphoney or palm sugar
• 1 tspChinese five-spice powder
• 1 tspground white pepper
• 4 clovesgarlic, minced
• 1 tbspneutral oil
• 1 smallred food color or 1 tsp annatto powder (optional, for the signature red rim)
• 500 gfresh thick yellow noodles (udon or thick Chinese egg noodles work best)(real cao lầu noodles are nearly impossible outside Hội An)
• 100 gdry chow-mein noodles or pork rinds for crispy topping
• 500 mlneutral oil for deep-frying crispy noodle bits
• 200 gbean sprouts
• 1 bunchThai basil leaves
• 1 bunchVietnamese mint or regular mint
• 1 headbutter lettuce, leaves torn
• 1lime, cut into wedges
• chili sauce or fresh sliced bird's eye chili, to serve

Instructions

1. 1

   Marinate the pork

   Combine soy sauce, fish sauce, hoisin, honey, five-spice, white pepper, garlic, oil, and annatto if using. Rub all over the pork shoulder. Refrigerate at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.

2. 2

   Roast the pork low and slow

   Heat oven to 160°C. Place pork in a small roasting dish with 200ml water in the bottom (to keep moist). Cover with foil and roast 75 minutes. Then uncover, brush with reserved marinade, and roast at 200°C for 15 more minutes until the surface caramelizes and slightly chars at the edges.

3. 3

   Rest and slice

   Rest pork 15 minutes. Reserve all pan juices — this is your sauce. Slice the pork very thinly across the grain, ideally on a meat slicer or with a very sharp knife.

4. 4

   Fry the crispy topping

   Heat the deep-frying oil to 180°C. Break the dry noodles or pork rinds into 2 cm pieces. Fry in small batches 30 seconds until golden and puffed. Drain on paper towels and salt lightly while hot.

5. 5

   Cook the fresh noodles

   Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook the fresh thick noodles per package instructions (usually 3–4 minutes for fresh) until just tender but with bite. Drain and toss with a teaspoon of oil to prevent sticking. Keep warm.

6. 6

   Reduce the sauce

   Strain the reserved pork pan juices into a small saucepan. If less than 150 ml, add a splash of water. Bring to a simmer and reduce 3 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon.

7. 7

   Assemble each bowl Hội An-style

   Lay a small handful of bean sprouts, torn lettuce, and herbs in the bottom of each bowl. Pile warm noodles on top. Arrange 6–8 slices of pork over the noodles. Spoon over 3 tablespoons of the reduced pan jus — just enough to glisten, never enough to be soup. Top with a generous handful of crispy noodle bits and a few extra herb leaves.

8. 8

   Serve

   Bring to the table immediately with lime wedges and chili sauce on the side. Diners squeeze lime and add chili to taste, then toss the bowl thoroughly with chopsticks before eating.

Variations

• •

  Chicken version: substitute marinated chicken thighs.

• •

  Vegetarian: replace pork with crispy fried tofu and mushroom; use mushroom soy and skip fish sauce.

• •

  Some Hội An shops add a thin slice of pork pâté on top.

Storage

All components keep separately 3 days refrigerated. Reheat noodles in boiling water 30 seconds; warm pork covered in a low oven 8 minutes. Crispy bits do not store — refry quickly.

Frequently Asked Questions