Bogotá's signature highland soup: three varieties of potato, chicken, corn on the cob, and guasca herb simmered into a thick, earthy, deeply comforting stew.
Ajiaco santafereño is the soul of Bogotá — Colombia's 2,600-metre highland capital — and one of the most distinctive soups in the Americas. What makes it singular is the use of three distinct potato varieties simultaneously: papa criolla (a small waxy Andean potato that disintegrates and thickens the broth), papa pastusa (a medium floury potato that softens to chunks), and papa sabanera (a firm waxy potato that holds its shape). Together they create a broth with three textures at once — velvety, chunky, and firm — no other potato soup achieves this layering. The second signature element is guasca (Galinsoga parviflora) — a herb native to the Andes with a subtle, slightly grassy, almost resinous flavour that is simply not substitutable. Without guasca, the soup is fine chicken-potato soup; with it, it is ajiaco. Corn on the cob cut into rounds adds sweetness and body. The whole pot cooks for 90 minutes until the chicken shreds easily and the criolla potatoes have disappeared entirely into a silky golden broth. It is traditionally served with crema (sour cream), capers, and sliced aguacate (avocado) on the side — each guest adds to taste.
Serves 6
Place chicken, onion halves, whole garlic, spring onions, half the cilantro, and water in a large pot. Bring to a boil, skim off any grey foam that rises. Reduce heat to a steady simmer.
After 20 minutes, add the firm waxy potatoes (sabanera) and corn rounds. Simmer 20 more minutes.
Add the floury potato (pastusa) and continue simmering 20 minutes until it begins to soften.
Add the criolla potatoes (or quartered yukon gold) and dried guasca. Simmer vigorously 20–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the criolla potatoes have completely disintegrated and the broth is thick and yellow-golden.
The violent disintegration of the papa criolla is what thickens the broth — this is by design, not overcooking.
Lift out chicken pieces. Remove and discard skin and bones; shred the meat into generous chunks. Remove the onion halves and spring onion stalks.
Return shredded chicken to the pot. Season generously with salt. Add remaining fresh cilantro. Simmer 5 more minutes.
Ladle into deep bowls, ensuring each bowl gets corn rounds and all three potato types. Serve with sour cream, capers, and avocado on the side for each guest to add.
Guasca is non-negotiable for authentic ajiaco — the herb's unique flavour defines the dish. It's available dried at most Latin American grocery stores and online. Buy a jar and keep it in the pantry.
Using all three potato varieties simultaneously produces the characteristic texture: if you can only find one type, use equal parts russet (for disintegration) and yukon gold (for chunks).
Ajiaco is always better the next day — the broth deepens and the potatoes further integrate. Make a large batch and refrigerate; it thickens considerably overnight.
Ajiaco with longaniza: add sliced pork longaniza sausage in the last 20 minutes.
Vegetarian ajiaco: omit chicken; use vegetable stock; add 200 g sweetcorn kernels for additional body.
Refrigerate up to 3 days. The soup thickens substantially when cold — add a splash of water or stock when reheating. Freezes for up to 2 months; freeze before adding cream garnish.
Ajiaco predates the Spanish conquest — indigenous Muisca people of the Bogotá savanna cooked potato and herb soups in clay pots for centuries. The Spanish added chicken and corn (from trade with coastal communities). The version now considered 'santafereño' (of Santafé de Bogotá, the colonial capital) was codified in the 18th and 19th centuries as the city's prestige dish. Today it is served at state banquets and considered Colombia's unofficial national soup.
There is no perfect substitute — guasca has a unique flavour profile. In a pinch, some cooks use a combination of Jerusalem artichoke leaves (dried) and a small amount of artichoke hearts mashed into the broth, but the result is different. If you can't find guasca, the soup is still delicious; it just isn't ajiaco.
Bone-in chicken is strongly preferred — the bones release collagen that enriches the broth. If using boneless, add a chicken stock cube and reduce water by 200 ml to compensate for the lost body.
Papa criolla is a small, yellow-fleshed Andean potato (Solanum phureja) with a waxy, creamy texture that breaks down when cooked. It's sold fresh or frozen at Latin grocery stores. Frozen papa criolla works well in this recipe.
Per serving (520g / 18.3 oz) · 6 servings total
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