Mexico's patriotic dish — poblanos stuffed with picadillo, draped in white walnut cream, scattered with pomegranate and parsley.
Chiles en nogada is Mexico's most patriotic dish — and possibly its most exquisite. A large roasted poblano chili is stuffed with picadillo (a complex mince of beef, pork, fruit, and almonds), then draped with a cool, snow-white walnut cream sauce (nogada) and showered with pomegranate seeds and chopped flat-leaf parsley. The three colors — green chili, white sauce, red pomegranate — are the colors of the Mexican flag. Created in 1821 by Augustinian nuns in Puebla to celebrate Agustín de Iturbide's signing of the Plan of Iguala that secured Mexican independence, the dish is served only in autumn when pomegranates and walnuts are in season (August-October). It is one of the most labor-intensive dishes in Mexican home cuisine and the centerpiece of Independence Day feasts across the country.
Serves 6
Char poblanos directly over a gas flame (or under a hot broiler) until blackened on all sides. Place in a covered bowl to steam 15 minutes. Peel off the charred skin (don't rinse — you lose flavor). Make a vertical slit in each chili; remove seeds and veins carefully, keeping the stem intact.
Heat lard in a wide skillet. Sauté diced onion 8 minutes until soft. Add garlic; cook 1 minute. Add beef and pork; brown for 8 minutes, breaking up.
Stir in tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Cook 8 minutes until reduced. Add apple, pear, peach, almonds, raisins, candied citron, and sherry. Simmer 15 minutes — the picadillo should be moist but not wet, with the fruit holding its shape and the flavors deeply integrated. Cool slightly.
Gently spoon picadillo into each poblano through the slit — about 1/3 cup per chili. Don't overfill; the chili should close almost completely. Set on a platter, slit-side up.
If using fresh walnuts in season, blanch in boiling water 2 minutes and rub off the bitter brown skins. (If using packaged, soak in milk 1 hour, then peel.) Place walnuts in a blender with blanched almonds, milk, queso fresco, crema, sugar, salt, and sherry. Blend until completely smooth — 2 minutes.
Pass the sauce through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing with a spatula. This is what makes the sauce silky and white. Discard any nut skin debris caught in the sieve.
Refrigerate the sauce 30 minutes. Traditional chiles en nogada are served with cool sauce over the warm chilies — the temperature contrast is the point.
Place each warmed stuffed poblano on a wide white plate. Pour cool walnut sauce generously over each chili so it drapes like a snow cape, completely covering the green chili. Don't be stingy with the sauce.
Scatter pomegranate seeds generously across the white sauce. Add a flourish of parsley leaves. The colors of the Mexican flag should be vivid: green parsley, white sauce, red pomegranate. Serve immediately.
If you can find fresh-shelled walnuts in autumn, use them — packaged walnuts have a slightly rancid edge that's noticeable in such a delicate sauce.
Strain the sauce — this is non-negotiable for the silky white texture.
Serve cool sauce over warm chili — the temperature contrast is intentional and unique to this dish.
Vegetarian: substitute the meat with a mix of mushrooms, lentils, and grated zucchini.
Capeado (Battered) version: dip the stuffed chilies in egg-white batter and fry first. More traditional in some Puebla households.
Modern lighter version: replace the cheese in the sauce with yogurt for a leaner nogada.
Stuffed chilies refrigerate 3 days; freeze 2 months. Walnut sauce only keeps fresh for 24 hours (oxidizes and goes gray). Make the sauce the day of serving.
Chiles en nogada was created in 1821 by Augustinian nuns at the Convento de Santa Mónica in Puebla to celebrate Agustín de Iturbide's visit to the city after the signing of the Plan of Iguala that secured Mexican independence. The colors of the Mexican flag — green, white, red — were intentional. It remains the centerpiece of Mexican Independence Day (September 16) meals and is served only in late summer-autumn when pomegranates and walnuts are in season.
You can, but Mexican families consider chiles en nogada strictly an August-October dish (when pomegranates and walnuts are in season). Out of season, the dish loses its meaning.
The brown skins on packaged walnuts are bitter. Either source fresh-shelled walnuts (rare outside Puebla in autumn), or soak in milk overnight and peel each one.
Per serving (420g / 14.8 oz) · 6 servings total
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