Oaxacan tamales wrapped in banana leaves with masa enriched with lard, filled with mole negro and chicken — richer, moister and more complex than corn-husk tamales.
Tamales oaxaqueños are categorically different from the corn-husk tamales of northern and central Mexico: they are wrapped in banana leaves, which impart a faint grassy, tropical aroma to the masa during steaming, and the masa itself is made richer and more tender through a higher proportion of lard and the addition of chicken broth. The filling is typically mole negro — Oaxaca's smoky, near-black chile sauce with charred chile seeds, multiple dried chiles, and Mexican chocolate — giving each tamal an extraordinary depth of flavor unlike any other version. Tamales have existed in Mesoamerica for at least 3,000 years. The Aztec codex Mendoza (circa 1541) documents numerous tamal varieties presented as tribute offerings to Aztec rulers. In Oaxaca, the banana-leaf tradition reflects both the tropical climate of the Oaxacan coastal region and the local agricultural abundance. During the Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead) in November, tamales oaxaqueños are placed on altars (ofrendas) as food offerings for departed souls. The technical challenge in tamales lies in the masa: it must be beaten until a small piece floats in water (the 'prueba del agua'), indicating that enough air and fat have been incorporated to ensure a light, tender steamed result. Under-beaten masa produces dense, gummy tamales; over-beaten masa spreads in the leaf. The banana leaves must be briefly passed over an open flame to soften them before rolling — a stiff leaf will crack and tear.
Serves 12
Hold each banana leaf rectangle over a medium gas flame for 5–10 seconds per side, moving constantly, until the leaf turns bright green and becomes pliable. Alternatively, briefly blanch in boiling water. Wipe both sides with a damp cloth and set aside.
Softened leaves are essential — stiff leaves crack when you try to fold the tamal.
Beat lard with an electric mixer on high speed until very fluffy and light, about 3 minutes. Add masa harina, salt, baking powder and warm broth alternately, beating continuously, until a smooth, light dough forms. The masa is ready when a small ball dropped into a glass of cold water floats on the surface.
Mix shredded chicken with enough mole negro to coat generously — the filling should be saucy but not running. Taste and adjust salt.
Lay a softened banana leaf on a work surface, glossy side up. Spread a thin layer of masa (about 3 mm thick, leaving a 3 cm border on all sides) over one half of the leaf. Place 2–3 tbsp of chicken mole filling in the center of the masa. Fold the leaf over to enclose the filling, then fold the ends under. The masa layers should seal around the filling.
Keep masa portions equal — about 80g per tamal. Overfilling causes leaks during steaming.
Tie each tamal with a thin strip of banana leaf or kitchen string. Stack in a steamer basket seam-side down or upright. Do not pack too tightly — steam needs to circulate.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Set the steamer basket above the boiling water. Cover tightly and steam on medium heat for 75–90 minutes, checking water level every 30 minutes. Tamales are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the banana leaf.
Remove tamales from the steamer and rest 10 minutes before opening — the masa needs to set. Serve in the banana leaf, letting guests unwrap at the table. Serve with additional warm mole negro and salsa verde on the side.
The lard-beating step determines tamal texture — beat the lard until completely white and fluffy before adding any other ingredient. An under-beaten fat base gives dense, heavy tamales.
Masa harina (Maseca) must be mixed fresh — if the masa sits more than 30 minutes before being spread, it stiffens and cracks when folded. Work efficiently or keep the masa bowl covered with a damp towel.
If banana leaves are unavailable, use fresh or frozen corn husks (dried corn husks soaked 2 hours in warm water). The flavor profile will be different but the technique is identical.
Tamales de rajas con queso: filling of roasted poblano strips and queso Oaxaqueño instead of chicken mole — the most popular vegetarian version in Oaxaca.
Tamales de mole amarillo: a lighter filling made with Oaxacan yellow mole (guajillo-based, no chocolate) and green beans — common in the Oaxacan Valleys region.
Steamed tamales keep refrigerated up to 5 days or frozen up to 3 months. Reheat by re-steaming 15–20 minutes (preferred) or microwave in the banana leaf wrapping, turning halfway, for 2–3 minutes. Never reheat in a dry oven — the masa dries out.
Tamales are among the oldest known prepared foods in the Americas, documented in Mesoamerica for at least 3,000 years. The Aztec codex Florentine (16th century) describes dozens of tamal varieties. Banana-leaf tamales are specific to the tropical regions of Mexico including Oaxaca, Veracruz, and the Yucatán, where banana cultivation made large leaves available as cooking vessels. Tamales oaxaqueños with mole negro represent the highest expression of Oaxacan cuisine and are obligatory at celebrations, wakes and the Día de Muertos.
Dense tamales are caused by insufficient lard-beating (the fat must be fully aerated before adding the masa), too little broth in the dough, or under-steaming. The float test is reliable — if a small piece of masa doesn't float in water, beat longer. Make sure the steam is sustained at medium heat throughout cooking.
Banana leaves are available frozen at Latin American, Asian, and Caribbean grocery stores. They come in large folded packages and thaw quickly at room temperature. Fresh banana leaves may be available at specialty stores. In a pinch, corn husks (soaked in warm water until pliable) are the standard alternative.
Yes — tamales are ideal make-ahead food. Assemble and steam, then refrigerate or freeze. Re-steam directly from frozen for 30 minutes. Many Mexican families make large batches (tamaladas) during the holiday season specifically for this purpose.
Per serving (280g / 9.9 oz) · 12 servings total
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