Bucatini with crispy guanciale, San Marzano tomatoes and Pecorino Romano — the most beloved of Roman pasta sauces.
Amatriciana is one of the four great Roman pasta sauces (carbonara, cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara being the others), originating in the mountain town of Amatrice in the Lazio region. The sauce is built on three pillars: guanciale (cured pork cheek) rendered until crispy, San Marzano tomatoes cooked down into a rich, bright sauce, and Pecorino Romano cheese stirred through at the end. A dry white wine and a touch of chilli are the only other necessary additions. The pasta of choice is bucatini — long, thick tubes with a hole running through the centre that traps sauce inside as well as coating the outside. The guanciale renders in a dry pan without any added oil, the fat becoming the cooking medium. The tomatoes are added to this guanciale fat, creating a sauce where the pork richness is woven through every element rather than sitting on top. Amatriciana is one of the most satisfying pasta sauces to make: it comes together in 20 minutes, uses pantry staples, and delivers a depth of flavour that belies its simplicity. Purists insist on no onion and no garlic — the guanciale flavour must be undiluted.
Serves 4
Place guanciale in a cold pan. Heat over medium — let it slowly render its fat for 8–10 minutes until golden and crispy. Remove guanciale, leaving the fat in the pan.
Cold-start rendering is essential — it extracts maximum fat without burning the outside.
Add wine to the hot pan and let it bubble for 1 minute, scraping up any bits.
Add tomatoes and chilli flakes. Simmer 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until sauce is rich and slightly thickened.
Cook bucatini in heavily salted water until al dente. Reserve 100ml pasta water.
Add drained pasta and guanciale to the tomato sauce. Toss vigorously, adding pasta water if needed to loosen. Remove from heat. Stir in Pecorino Romano.
No onion, no garlic — Amatriciana purists are fierce about this.
Guanciale is worth seeking out. Pancetta is an acceptable substitute; bacon is a last resort.
Add Pecorino off the heat — it should melt from residual warmth, not cook further.
Some Roman cooks add a small amount of onion — this is technically 'gricia' style.
Use rigatoni instead of bucatini for a tube pasta that catches the sauce.
Sauce keeps 4 days in the fridge. Do not store cooked pasta in the sauce.
Amatriciana originates from Amatrice, a mountain town in northern Lazio, and has been documented since at least the 18th century. The town was devastated by an earthquake in 2016, but the dish has become a symbol of solidarity with the region — Italian restaurants worldwide held fundraising 'Amatriciana nights' in the aftermath. The recipe is now registered as a traditional agri-food product (PAT) by the Italian government.
Technically yes, but the flavour will be different. Guanciale is cured pork cheek — it is fattier, less salty, and more delicate than pancetta or bacon. It renders into a silkier, more flavourful fat. Pancetta is a reasonable substitute; smoked bacon changes the character of the dish significantly. Worth seeking out guanciale at an Italian deli.
Per serving (400g) · 4 servings total
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