Hünkâr Beğendi (Sultan's Delight — Lamb on Smoked Aubergine Purée)

About This Recipe

Hünkâr Beğendi, meaning 'the sultan was pleased', is one of the most celebrated dishes in Turkish cuisine. It consists of slow-braised lamb in tomato and onion sauce, served on a silky smoked aubergine purée enriched with butter, flour and melted kaşar cheese — essentially a smoked aubergine béchamel. The aubergine is first charred directly over a flame until completely black and soft, then peeled, drained and beaten into the sauce. The combination of smoky, cheesy purée and savoury braised lamb is extraordinary. The dish was reputedly created to please Empress Eugénie of France during her 1869 visit to Sultan Abdülaziz.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 700 glamb shoulder, cut into 4 cm cubes
• 1 largeonion, finely chopped
• 3garlic cloves, minced
• 400 gcanned chopped tomatoes
• 2 tbspbutter
• 2 tbspolive oil
• 300 mlwater or lamb stock
• to tastesalt and black pepper
• 3large aubergines (eggplant)
• 40 gbutter for purée
• 2 tbspplain flour
• 300 mlwhole milk, warm
• 80 gkaşar or gruyère cheese, grated
• 1 tbsplemon juice
• to tastesalt and nutmeg

Instructions

1. 1

   Brown the lamb

   Heat oil and butter in a heavy pot over high heat. Season lamb with salt and pepper, then brown in batches until deeply coloured on all sides. Remove and set aside.

2. 2

   Build the stew

   Sauté onion until soft, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Return lamb, add tomatoes and stock. Simmer covered over low heat for 60–70 minutes until tender.

3. 3

   Char the aubergines

   Place whole aubergines directly on a gas flame or under a very hot broiler. Char, turning occasionally, until completely blackened and soft, 15–20 minutes.

4. 4

   Peel and drain

   When cool enough to handle, peel off charred skin. Drain flesh in a colander for 10 minutes, pressing to remove bitter juices. Chop and stir in lemon juice.

5. 5

   Make the purée

   Melt butter, add flour and stir for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in warm milk until thickened. Fold in aubergine flesh, grated cheese, salt and nutmeg. Beat until smooth.

6. 6

   Assemble and serve

   Spoon aubergine purée onto warm plates, creating a well. Ladle the lamb stew and sauce over the purée. Serve immediately.

Variations

• •

  Chicken hünkâr beğendi: replace lamb with bone-in chicken pieces for a lighter version.

• •

  Add pul biber (Aleppo pepper) to the lamb stew for gentle heat.

• •

  Vegetarian: swap the protein for roasted king oyster mushrooms, smoked tofu or cooked chickpeas — adjust seasoning slightly upward to compensate.

• •

  Spicier: add a finely chopped fresh chile or a teaspoon of crushed Aleppo/Urfa pepper to the aromatics for warm, layered heat instead of a single sharp hit.

Storage

Lamb stew keeps in the fridge for 3 days or freezes well. Make the purée fresh.

Frequently Asked Questions