Extraordinarily thick split pea soup with smoked pork knuckle, celeriac, leek and rookworst sausage — the Netherlands' most beloved winter dish.
Snert (the Dutch nickname for erwtensoep, split pea soup) is the Netherlands' most beloved winter dish and a national institution: a soup so thick that, according to the traditional test, a spoon should stand upright in it. Made from yellow or green split peas slow-cooked with a meaty smoked pork knuckle, celeriac, leek, carrot and celery until the peas completely dissolve into a thick, creamy porridge, it is finished with slices of rookworst (Dutch smoked sausage) and often served with roggebrood (dark rye bread) and butter. Snert is deeply associated with cold weather, ice skating (traditionally sold at outdoor rinks), and the Dutch concept of 'gezelligheid' — cosy togetherness. It improves dramatically overnight and is at its best on the second day.
Serves 6
Rinse split peas. Place in a large pot with pork knuckle, onion, celery and water. Bring to a boil, skim foam. Reduce heat and simmer for 1 hour.
Add celeriac, carrots and leek. Continue simmering for 45 minutes until the peas have completely dissolved and the soup is very thick.
The soup should become completely smooth and thick as the peas dissolve — this is the goal.
Remove the pork knuckle. Shred the meat, discard bones and skin. Return meat to the soup. Season with salt and white pepper.
Slice rookworst and add to the soup 5 minutes before serving to warm through. Serve with dark rye bread and butter.
The soup must be made a day ahead for best flavour — it thickens overnight and the flavours meld.
The traditional test: your spoon should stand upright in the finished soup.
Rookworst (Dutch smoked sausage) is available in Dutch delis and some supermarkets — substitute with any smoked sausage.
Taste and adjust salt at the very end — flavors concentrate as liquids reduce, and a final pinch of flaky salt sharpens the whole dish.
Vegetarian snert: omit the pork, use smoked paprika and extra celeriac for smokiness.
Spicier: add a finely chopped fresh chile or a teaspoon of crushed Aleppo/Urfa pepper to the aromatics for warm, layered heat instead of a single sharp hit.
Lighter: reduce the fat by a third and finish with a squeeze of citrus or a splash of vinegar to keep brightness without losing body.
Make-ahead: prepare the base a day in advance and reheat gently — most braises and stews actually taste better on day two.
Refrigerate for up to 5 days — this is genuinely better reheated. It thickens to a solid mass when cold — add water when reheating and stir well. Freezes very well for up to 3 months.
Erwtensoep has been eaten in the Netherlands since at least the medieval period, with references in Dutch cookbooks from the 16th century. It became associated with the Dutch winter and with activities like ice skating on frozen canals, where it was sold from mobile stalls to warm cold skaters. Today snert remains one of the most consumed soups in the Netherlands and is considered a symbol of Dutch national food culture — particularly associated with Sinterklaas and Christmas.
The peas need to fully dissolve to thicken the soup. Simmer longer, and if needed use an immersion blender to blitz some of the soup. Also ensure you're using split peas, not whole dried peas.
Yes — most of the components can be prepared up to a day in advance and refrigerated separately. Reheat gently and assemble just before serving so textures stay distinct.
Stay close to the role each ingredient plays: swap aromatics for similar ones (shallot for onion, lime for lemon), and keep the fat-acid-salt balance intact. Spice blends can usually be approximated with what's in the cupboard.
Authenticity sits on a spectrum — what matters more is honoring the technique and balance of flavors. If the dish tastes harmonious and respects how cooks in its home region would build it, you're on solid ground.
Per serving (480g / 16.9 oz) · 6 servings total
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