Flaky square Moroccan pan-fried flatbreads served with amlou, a rich almond and argan oil spread, for a leisurely weekend breakfast.
A Moroccan breakfast table centers on msemen, a square, laminated flatbread folded and re-folded with oil and semolina between the layers so it fries up into a flaky, almost pastry-like bread rather than a plain flatbread. Alongside it sits amlou, a thick paste of roasted almonds, argan oil and honey from the Souss region in southern Morocco, traditionally ground by hand with a mortar and pestle until it becomes a spreadable, nutty condiment somewhat like a rustic peanut butter. Together with mint tea, this spread makes for a slow, sociable breakfast, the warm flaky bread torn into pieces and dragged through the amlou or a pool of honey, best enjoyed fresh off the griddle while still warm.
Serves 4
Mix flour, semolina, salt and sugar, then knead in warm water until a soft, smooth dough forms; rest 15 minutes.
Divide the dough into 8 balls, coat each lightly in oil, and let rest 15 more minutes.
Flatten each ball on an oiled surface into a thin rectangle, brush with the oil-butter mix, then fold into thirds like a letter, and fold into thirds again to form a square packet.
Gently press and stretch each folded square flat with oiled hands into a thin square about 6 inches across, being careful not to tear it.
Handle the dough with oiled hands, not floured ones, so the layers stay distinct and don't stick.
Cook each msemen on a hot, lightly oiled griddle 2-3 minutes per side until golden and flaky, pressing gently with a spatula.
Blend roasted almonds, argan oil, honey and salt in a food processor until it forms a thick, spreadable paste.
Serve the warm msemen torn into pieces alongside the amlou and extra honey.
Use oiled hands rather than flour when shaping msemen — flour prevents the dough from stretching thin enough for proper flakiness.
Don't skip the resting periods between folds; the dough needs time to relax or it will spring back and tear when stretched.
If you can't find argan oil, roasted walnut oil or a neutral oil with extra honey gets closer to amlou's flavor than olive oil would.
A savory version of msemen omits the sugar and is served alongside eggs or a spiced tomato dip.
Some households add a spoonful of peanut butter to the amlou for a smoother, more familiar texture.
Msemen can be made ahead and frozen between layers of parchment, then reheated on a dry griddle.
Msemen is best eaten fresh but keeps a day at room temperature wrapped in a cloth; reheat on a dry skillet. Amlou keeps in a sealed jar at room temperature for weeks, the oil naturally preserving it.
Amlou originates in the Souss valley of southern Morocco, home to the argan tree found almost nowhere else in the world, where Berber communities have pressed the oil and ground it with almonds and honey for generations.
Yes, culinary-grade (not cosmetic) argan oil is sold in specialty and Middle Eastern grocery stores, though it can be pricey.
Let the dough rest longer — gluten relaxation is what allows it to stretch, and rushing this step causes tears.
Add a bit more oil while blending until it reaches a smooth, spreadable consistency; older or drier almonds need more oil to loosen.
Per serving (220g / 7.8 oz) · 4 servings total
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