Shredded salt cod scrambled with crispy potato straws, onion and eggs, a beloved Portuguese holiday dish.
Bacalhau à Brás is one of Portugal's most iconic salt cod dishes, said to have originated in Lisbon's Bairro Alto district, where shredded desalted cod is combined with thin-fried potato straws, softened onion and scrambled eggs, all folded together into a soft, comforting scramble finished with black pepper and parsley. It's a dish found on nearly every Portuguese restaurant menu and family holiday table. The salt cod requires advance planning: it needs to soak in cold water for at least 24 hours, with the water changed several times, to draw out excess salt before cooking. Once desalted, poached and shredded, the cod gets folded into a pan of softened onion and thin, crisp-fried potato straws, then bound together with beaten eggs cooked just until softly set, never fully scrambled dry. Black olives and chopped parsley scattered on top are the traditional garnish, adding both color and a briny counterpoint to the rich, eggy scramble underneath.
Serves 4
Poach desalted cod in simmering water 8-10 minutes until it flakes easily. Drain, cool slightly, and shred into small pieces, removing any bones or skin.
Heat vegetable oil to 175C (350F). Fry potato matchsticks in batches until golden and crisp, about 4-5 minutes. Drain on paper towels.
Heat 3 tbsp olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook onions and garlic until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes.
Add shredded cod to the onions and cook 3 minutes to warm through. Fold in the fried potato straws gently.
Pour in beaten eggs and black pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring gently, until the eggs are just softly set, 3-4 minutes; don't overcook. Garnish with parsley and black olives, and serve immediately.
Don't skip changing the soaking water for the salt cod; failing to desalt it properly leaves the dish inedibly salty.
Cook the eggs over low heat and remove from the pan while still slightly soft; they continue cooking off the heat and can turn dry if overdone.
Fry the potato straws just before combining so they stay as crisp as possible before folding into the eggs.
Use store-bought shoestring fries instead of frying your own potato straws to save time.
Add a pinch of nutmeg to the eggs for a subtle warmth some regional versions include.
Swap black olives for green if that's what you have on hand; both are traditional depending on the region.
Best eaten immediately since the fried potatoes lose their crispness on standing. Leftovers can be refrigerated up to 1 day, though the texture will soften considerably on reheating.
Bacalhau à Brás is widely believed to have originated in the Bairro Alto neighborhood of Lisbon, created by a tavern owner named Brás, though details of the exact origin story vary. It remains one of the most popular of Portugal's many salt cod preparations, prized for turning humble ingredients into a rich, comforting dish.
At least 24 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water 3 times, is standard; thicker pieces of cod may need up to 48 hours to fully desalt.
The dish's character really comes from salt cod's distinct texture and concentrated flavor after desalting; fresh cod will taste much milder and won't be the traditional dish, though it will still work in a pinch.
They were likely cooked too long or over too high heat; keep the heat low and pull the pan off just before the eggs look fully set, since residual heat finishes the cooking.
Per serving (380g / 13.4 oz) · 4 servings total
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