Bacalao al Pil Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Garlic-Olive Oil Sauce)

About This Recipe

Bacalao al pil pil is a Basque specialty built around a genuinely unusual technique: salt cod, rehydrated and poached very gently in olive oil with garlic and dried chile, releases collagen from its skin that -- when the pan is swirled patiently -- emulsifies with the oil into a thick, glossy, mayonnaise-like sauce, entirely without eggs or cream. The name 'pil pil' describes the sizzling sound of the fish gently poaching, and the sauce it produces is considered one of Basque cuisine's most technically impressive achievements. The technique requires real patience and a gentle hand: the cod must be poached at a very low temperature (never simmering hard) so the skin's gelatin releases slowly, and once the fish is removed, the pan is swirled continuously -- sometimes for 10-15 minutes -- while the oil is emulsified into the released juices, similar in principle to making an emulsion sauce like hollandaise but using fish gelatin instead of egg yolk. Rushing the heat or agitating too vigorously breaks the emulsion, resulting in a greasy, separated sauce instead of the desired silky pil pil. Served with the fish nestled in its own thick garlic-oil emulsion, bacalao al pil pil is a dish that showcases the Basque Country's obsession with technique-driven simplicity, considered one of the great tests of a cook's patience and skill.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 600 gsalt cod(desalted, soaked 24-48 hours, skin on)
• 1.5 cupsolive oil
• 6 clovesgarlic(thinly sliced)
• 2dried guindilla or cayenne chiles(whole)

Instructions

1. 1

   Desalt the cod

   Soak salt cod in cold water for 24-48 hours, changing the water several times, until the salt is mostly drawn out. Pat dry.

2. 2

   Infuse the oil

   Heat olive oil in a wide pan over low heat. Add garlic and chiles, cooking gently until the garlic turns golden, about 5 minutes. Remove garlic and chiles and set aside.

3. 3

   Poach the cod

   Lower heat further and add cod pieces, skin-side up, to the oil. Poach very gently -- the oil should barely bubble -- for 8-10 minutes until the fish is just cooked through.

4. 4

   Remove the fish

   Carefully remove the cod pieces and set aside, keeping them warm.

5. 5

   Build the emulsion

   Off heat, tilt and swirl the pan continuously (or use a whisk in circular motions), gradually incorporating the oil into the gelatinous juices left behind, until it thickens into a glossy, mayonnaise-like sauce.

6. 6

   Combine and serve

   Return the cod to the emulsified sauce, spooning it generously over each piece. Top with the reserved fried garlic and chiles, and serve immediately.

Variations

• •

  Bacalao al pil pil con salsa verde: fold in some fresh parsley and a splash of white wine for a green-tinged variation.

• •

  If the emulsion breaks, add a small piece of raw cod skin to the sauce and continue swirling -- the extra gelatin can sometimes help re-emulsify it.

• •

  Serve with roasted piquillo peppers alongside for a classic Basque pairing.

Storage

Best eaten immediately, as the emulsion can break upon reheating. If needed, gently rewarm over very low heat, swirling constantly, though results may vary.

Frequently Asked Questions