Chicken simmered in a dark roasted curry powder base with black pepper and lemon, the deeply savory pepper curry style found across Sri Lanka's hill country.
Sri Lankan curries are defined largely by how the spices are treated before they hit the pot, and this black pepper chicken curry leans on a dark-roasted curry powder — coriander, cumin, fennel and dried chile toasted in a dry pan until nearly black — that gives the dish its deep, almost bitter-sweet backbone. Freshly cracked black pepper is added generously on top of that roasted base, making this noticeably more peppery than the milder, coconut-forward curries more familiar outside the island. The chicken, usually bone-in for flavor, is browned first in a pan with curry leaves, pandan leaf and a cinnamon stick, aromatics that are central to Sri Lankan cooking and rarely skipped even in a quick weeknight version. A squeeze of lemon at the end brightens what would otherwise be a heavy, dark curry, and the sauce should reduce until it clings to the chicken rather than pooling thin around it. Unlike the milder coconut milk curries served alongside it on a typical Sri Lankan rice and curry plate, pepper chicken is meant to have real heat and bite — it's often the dish locals point to as proof that Sri Lankan food doesn't rely on coconut milk to taste rich.
Serves 4
Dry-toast coriander, cumin, fennel and dried chiles in a pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until dark brown and fragrant, about 5 minutes. Grind to a coarse powder.
Heat coconut oil in a pot. Add onion, curry leaves, pandan and cinnamon stick, cooking until the onion softens and turns golden at the edges.
Add garlic and ginger, cook 1 minute, then add chicken pieces and brown on all sides, about 8 minutes.
Let the chicken sit undisturbed for a minute or two at a time so it actually browns instead of stewing in its own liquid.
Stir in the roasted curry powder and cracked black pepper, coating the chicken evenly. Add water and salt, cover, and simmer 25 minutes until the chicken is tender.
Uncover and simmer another 5 to 10 minutes until the sauce thickens and clings to the chicken. Stir in lemon juice off the heat and serve.
Toast the curry powder spices until they're genuinely dark brown, almost at the edge of burning — this is what gives Sri Lankan pepper curry its signature deep flavor.
Use freshly cracked black pepper, not pre-ground, and add it generously; the pepper is meant to be a dominant flavor, not a background note.
Curry leaves and pandan are worth sourcing fresh or frozen from an Asian grocer — dried versions lose most of their aroma.
Use beef or goat instead of chicken, extending the simmer time until the meat is fully tender.
Add a splash of coconut milk at the end for a milder, creamier version while keeping the roasted spice base.
Increase the dried chiles for a hotter curry, or reduce them and rely mainly on black pepper for a milder heat profile.
Refrigerate up to 4 days; the flavor deepens overnight, making this an excellent make-ahead curry. Reheat gently on the stove with a splash of water to loosen the sauce.
Roasted curry powder, distinct from the raw curry powders used in South Indian cooking, is a defining feature of Sri Lankan cuisine, and black pepper based curries in particular are common in the island's central hill country where black pepper has long been cultivated.
Sri Lankan curry powder is dry-roasted until dark brown before grinding, giving it a deeper, almost smoky flavor compared to the milder raw curry powders used in many Indian curries.
You can, but toast it briefly in a dry pan first to develop some of the roasted depth, since most commercial blends are unroasted and taste flatter.
It's meant to have real heat from both the dried chiles and the black pepper — reduce the chiles to 1 or 2 if you prefer a milder version while keeping the pepper for flavor.
Per serving (320g / 11.3 oz) · 4 servings total
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