Tender braised lamb cubes in a rich tomato sauce, served over a silky smoked eggplant and bechamel puree fit for an Ottoman sultan.
Hunkar begendi, meaning 'sultan's delight,' is an Ottoman palace dish said to have been created for Sultan Abdulaziz, pairing slow-braised lamb with begendi, a smoky eggplant puree enriched with a light bechamel-style sauce. The lamb is browned and then simmered low and slow in a tomato and pepper sauce until it falls apart at the touch of a fork, while separately, whole eggplants are charred directly over a flame until the skin blackens and the flesh turns smoky and soft. The eggplant flesh is scooped out, blended with butter, flour and milk into a smooth, cheese-enriched puree, then the braised lamb and its sauce are ladled generously over the top — a dish built entirely on contrast between rich meat and silky, smoky vegetable.
Serves 4
Heat olive oil in a heavy pot, brown lamb cubes in batches, then remove and set aside.
In the same pot, cook onion until soft, add garlic, tomato paste and red pepper paste, cooking 2 minutes.
Return lamb to the pot with stock, salt and pepper; bring to a boil, then cover and simmer on low 75-90 minutes until fork-tender.
Meanwhile, char the eggplants directly over a gas flame or under a broiler, turning until the skin is blackened all over and the flesh has collapsed, about 15 minutes.
Blackening the skin fully is what gives begendi its essential smoky flavor — don't rush this step.
Let the eggplants cool slightly, scoop out the smoky flesh, discard the skin, and toss the flesh with lemon juice to keep it from discoloring.
Melt butter in a saucepan, whisk in flour to make a roux, then gradually whisk in milk until smooth and thickened.
Stir the eggplant flesh and cheese into the milk sauce until smooth and creamy.
Spoon the begendi onto plates and ladle the braised lamb and its sauce generously over the top.
Char the eggplant until the skin is completely black and blistered — this smoky flavor is the entire point of begendi, so don't stop early.
Toss the scooped eggplant flesh with lemon juice immediately to prevent it from turning gray or bitter.
Braise the lamb low and slow, covered, rather than boiling hard — a gentle simmer keeps the meat tender instead of tough.
A vegetarian version serves the begendi with roasted mushrooms in a similar tomato sauce instead of lamb.
Chicken thighs can replace lamb for a lighter, faster-cooking version.
Some versions use only butter and no cheese in the begendi for a purer eggplant flavor.
Refrigerate lamb and begendi separately up to 3 days; reheat the begendi gently with a splash of milk to loosen it, and reheat the lamb covered on the stove.
Hunkar begendi is documented in Ottoman palace cookbooks and traditionally attributed to a dish prepared for Sultan Abdulaziz on a state visit to France in the 19th century, blending Ottoman lamb cookery with a French-influenced bechamel technique.
Yes, roast whole eggplants at 230C/450F for 40-45 minutes until fully collapsed, or char under a broiler, turning occasionally, though flame gives the most authentic smoky flavor.
A mild yellow cheese like young gouda or mozzarella works as a substitute in the begendi.
Old or overripe eggplants can turn bitter when charred — choose firm, glossy eggplants and toss the flesh with lemon juice right after scooping.
Per serving (400g / 14.1 oz) · 4 servings total
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