Spicy pork simmered in coconut milk and chile, Bicol Express-style, served over rice.
Bicol Express is a fiery pork stew named after the express train connecting Manila to the Bicol region, where dishes are built on coconut milk and generous amounts of chile. Pork belly or shoulder simmers slowly in coconut milk with shrimp paste (bagoong) and sliced red finger chiles until the sauce reduces to a thick, glossy, deeply spicy coating. The defining move is letting the coconut milk cook long enough to split slightly and release its oil, which is when the dish develops real depth instead of tasting like a thin curry. Bagoong alamang (shrimp paste) is what separates real Bicol Express from a generic coconut curry; it adds a salty, funky backbone that chile alone can't replicate, though fish sauce is a workable substitute in a pinch. Served over steamed rice, the dish is meant to be sweat-inducing and rich, balanced by the rice's plainness, and it's a staple at Filipino turo-turo (point-and-eat) counters throughout Metro Manila.
Serves 5
Heat oil in a heavy pot over medium-high heat. Sear pork strips until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Remove and set aside.
In the same pot, saute onion, garlic and ginger until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Stir in shrimp paste and cook 1 minute to remove rawness.
Return pork to the pot, add coconut milk, and bring to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until pork is tender.
Add coconut cream and chiles, then simmer uncovered 10-15 minutes until the sauce thickens and the oil starts to separate slightly at the edges.
Taste and adjust with more shrimp paste or chile if needed. Serve hot over steamed rice, spooning extra sauce over the top.
Use bagoong alamang (fermented shrimp paste), sold in jars at Filipino grocers; fish sauce works but the flavor will be flatter and less funky.
Let the sauce simmer uncovered near the end so the coconut fat renders visibly; this is what gives Bicol Express its signature richness.
Adjust chile heat by removing seeds from half the chiles if you want flavor without maximum heat.
Swap pork for shrimp or a mix of pork and shrimp for a coastal Bicol variation.
Vegetarian version: use fried tofu and mushrooms, and season with soy sauce plus a touch of white miso instead of shrimp paste.
Add sliced string beans (sitaw) or eggplant for a vegetable-forward version common in home cooking.
Refrigerate up to 3 days in an airtight container; the flavor deepens overnight. Reheat gently on the stove, adding a splash of coconut milk if the sauce has thickened too much.
Bicol Express takes its name from the train route linking Manila to the Bicol region, whose cuisine is known for heavy use of coconut milk and chile. The dish was popularized in Manila restaurants in the 1970s as a spicier, coconut-based alternative to milder Filipino pork stews.
Yes, use fewer chiles or remove the seeds and membranes, which hold most of the heat. The dish will still taste rich from the coconut milk and shrimp paste.
Fish sauce is the most common substitute, though the flavor will be less funky. Some cooks add a small anchovy fillet mashed into the sauce for a closer approximation.
You likely didn't simmer it long enough uncovered. Bicol Express needs 10-15 minutes of open reduction for the coconut fat to separate and thicken the sauce.
Per serving (380g / 13.4 oz) · 5 servings total
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