
Estonian pork brawn — a chilled, set terrine of slow-cooked pork and aromatic vegetables, sliced and served with mustard and vinegar.
Sült is an Estonian aspic or head cheese — a cold-set terrine made by simmering pork offcuts (trotters, ears, and knuckle) until the collagen-rich cooking liquid sets firm when chilled. The tradition of preparing sült before Christmas and Easter dates to at least the 19th century, when the entire pig was utilised and nothing wasted. The finished loaf is sliced thinly and served with sharp yellow mustard and a splash of vinegar, which cuts brilliantly through the unctuous gelatin. Despite its old-fashioned image, sült is still widely prepared by Estonian home cooks and sold in delicatessens across the country.
Serves 10
Place the trotters and knuckle in a large pot. Cover with cold water, bring to a boil, and discard the water. Refill with fresh cold water, add the carrots, onion, bay leaves, allspice, peppercorns, garlic, and salt. Simmer on very low heat for 3–4 hours until the meat falls from the bones.
Remove the meat and strain the broth into a clean pot. Reduce the broth over high heat by one-third. Shred the meat, discarding all bones, skin, and cartilage. Dice the cooked carrots.
Arrange the shredded meat and carrot in a loaf tin or terrine mould. Pour over enough warm broth to just cover. Allow to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate for at least 6 hours or overnight until firmly set.
Run a knife around the edges, invert onto a platter, and slice thickly. Serve cold with mustard and a splash of cider vinegar.
A long, slow simmer is essential — a rolling boil makes the broth cloudy and less flavourful.
Test the gel set by placing a spoonful of broth on a cold plate; it should set firm within 3 minutes.
Add a splash of apple cider vinegar to the broth before pouring for extra brightness.
Sült with chicken instead of pork
Layered sült with hard-boiled eggs and gherkins
Sült with added pickled beet
Keep refrigerated for up to 5 days, tightly wrapped to prevent the surface from drying out.
Head cheese and aspic preparations have been made across Northern Europe since the Middle Ages. In Estonia, sült preparation at the winter pig slaughter was a communal event involving the whole extended family.
Dissolve 10 g of powdered gelatine in warm broth and stir into the rest before pouring over the meat.
Freezing is not recommended as it destroys the gel texture. Prepare fresh and consume within 5 days.
Per serving (130g / 4.6 oz) · 10 servings total
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