
Delicate Bhutanese buckwheat dumplings stuffed with turnip greens and soft cheese, steamed to perfection. A beloved speciality of the Haa valley.
Hoentay are the Bhutanese cousin of Tibetan momos, but distinguished by their grey-hued buckwheat wrapper and distinctive regional filling. Originating in the Haa valley in western Bhutan, they are made during the Lomba festival and cold winter months when buckwheat is freshly milled and turnip greens are abundant. The filling combines wilted leafy greens with datshi cheese and occasionally dried beef, wrapped in thin buckwheat dough and steamed over boiling water. Their slightly earthy, nutty wrapper contrasts beautifully with the creamy, savoury filling.
Serves 4
Combine buckwheat flour, all-purpose flour, and salt in a large bowl. Gradually add warm water, mixing until a firm, smooth dough forms. Knead for 5 minutes, then cover and rest for 20 minutes.
Heat oil in a pan, sauté onion and ginger for 2 minutes. Add the chopped chillis and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in the blanched greens and crumbled cheese. Season lightly.
Divide dough into walnut-sized balls. Roll each into a thin circle about 10 cm in diameter. Place a heaped teaspoon of filling in the centre, then pleat and seal the edges tightly to form a half-moon shape.
Arrange dumplings in a lightly oiled steamer basket, leaving space between each. Steam over boiling water for 15–18 minutes until the wrappers are cooked through and slightly translucent.
Serve immediately with a dipping sauce of soy sauce, vinegar, and sliced chilli.
Squeeze every drop of moisture from the greens or the filling will be watery.
A mix of buckwheat and plain flour gives better pliability — pure buckwheat dough tears easily.
Lightly oil the steamer to prevent sticking.
Add minced dried beef or yak jerky to the filling.
Use kale or chard if turnip greens are unavailable.
Pan-fry leftover dumplings the next day for crispy bottoms.
Uncooked shaped dumplings can be frozen on a tray then transferred to a bag. Steam from frozen for 22 minutes.
Hoentay are deeply tied to the Lomba new year festival of the Haa valley, where families gather to make them together as a communal act. The buckwheat wrapper sets them apart from Tibetan and Nepali dumplings and speaks to the importance of buckwheat as a cold-climate crop in western Bhutan.
Yes — any tiered bamboo or metal steamer works perfectly.
Buckwheat has no gluten, so pure buckwheat dough is very fragile. The small amount of plain flour gives elasticity.
Per serving (260g) · 4 servings total
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