
Whole fish, taro, and sweet potato slow-roasted in a traditional underground umu — the heart of Cook Islands feasting.
The umu is the Cook Islands' version of the earth oven. Hot volcanic rocks are buried in a pit, food is wrapped in banana leaves, and everything steams and smokes for hours beneath layers of sacking and earth. The result is incomparably tender meat and vegetables with a subtle smoky flavour. This recipe adapts the method for a home oven.
Serves 6
Preheat oven to 200 °C (390 °F). Season fish and vegetables with salt. Drizzle coconut cream over the fish. Wrap each item tightly in banana leaves or double-layered foil.
Place taro and sweet potato parcels on a large roasting tray. Lay the fish parcel on top.
Bake for 80–90 minutes. Root vegetables are done when a skewer pierces them easily; the fish should flake cleanly.
Bring everything to the table still in their parcels. Unwrap at the table to release the fragrant steam. Serve with rukau and ika mata.
If banana leaves are unavailable, foil works perfectly.
Add sprigs of lemongrass inside the fish parcel for extra fragrance.
Include chicken pieces or pork ribs in additional parcels.
Add a layer of sliced coconut flesh inside the fish parcel.
Refrigerate leftovers for up to 2 days. Reheat wrapped in foil in the oven.
The umu has been used in the Pacific for over 2,000 years. In the Cook Islands it is the centrepiece of Sunday lunches and celebrations such as weddings and church feasts.
Yes — place the foil parcels over indirect heat for the same time. The smoky grill adds another dimension to the flavour.
Per serving (400g) · 6 servings total
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