
Latvia's beloved grey peas with salty bacon — a simple, intensely satisfying dish eaten at Midsummer and on special occasions throughout the year.
Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi (grey peas with bacon) holds an almost sacred status in Latvian cuisine. Grey peas — a heritage variety with an earthier, nuttier flavour than green or yellow peas — are soaked overnight, boiled until tender, and then combined with generous amounts of fried smoked bacon and onion. The dish is mandatory at Jāņi (Midsummer celebrations, Latvia's biggest festival) and is listed as one of Latvia's official cultural heritage foods. Despite the simple preparation, the quality of the ingredients matters enormously: genuine Latvian grey peas and traditionally cold-smoked bacon are irreplaceable.
Serves 4
Drain the soaked peas, cover with fresh cold water by 5 cm, and bring to a boil. Skim any foam, reduce heat, and simmer for 60–80 minutes until completely tender. Season with salt in the last 10 minutes of cooking. Drain and keep warm.
Melt the lard in a wide frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the bacon and fry until beginning to crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and cook for a further 8–10 minutes until the onion is soft and golden.
Add the drained peas to the pan with the bacon and onion. Toss to combine and season with black pepper. Cook together for 3–4 minutes so the peas absorb the bacon fat.
Transfer to a serving dish and garnish with dill or parsley if using. Serve immediately as a main course or generous side dish.
Do not salt the peas until nearly cooked — early salting toughens the skins.
Grey peas are available from Latvian food importers and online. Marrowfat peas are a reasonable substitute.
The dish is best served fresh; reheated peas lose their texture.
Pelēkie zirņi ar speķi with added sautéed mushrooms
Served cold as a salad with vinegar dressing
Stuffed into rye bread rolls
Refrigerate for up to 3 days. Reheat gently in a pan with a splash of water.
Grey peas have been cultivated in Latvia since at least the 16th century. The combination with smoked bacon evolved as a festive dish, connected to Jāņi (Midsummer) when families gathered to celebrate the summer solstice.
Canned peas will be too soft and lack the robust flavour of properly soaked and cooked dried grey peas. Dried peas are strongly recommended.
Beer — ideally a Latvian craft lager — is the classic accompaniment at Jāņi celebrations.
Per serving (320g) · 4 servings total
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