Hamsili Pilav

About This Recipe

Hamsili pilav is one of Turkey's most ingenious and dramatic dishes, originating from the Black Sea coast where hamsi (anchovies) are caught in vast quantities every autumn and winter. Fresh anchovies — cleaned and deboned — are layered in a large pan or pot, their silvery skins forming the outer crust, encasing a filling of fragrant pilaf rice cooked with dill, onion, pine nuts, and currants. The whole construction is inverted onto a platter when done, revealing a spectacular domed rice cake surrounded by a golden, crispy fish crust. It is simultaneously a fish dish and a rice dish, salty and herbaceous, crispy and soft. Hamsili pilav is the pride of the Black Sea region and a dish that every visitor to Trabzon or Rize must try.

Ingredients

Serves 4

• 600 gfresh anchovies or sardines(cleaned, butterflied)
• 300 gmedium-grain rice
• 1 largeonion(finely diced)
• 3 tbsppine nuts
• 2 tbspcurrants
• ½ tspallspice
• ½ tspcinnamon
• ½ bunchfresh dill(chopped)
• 3 tbspbutter
• 400 mlchicken stock or water
• Salt and pepper(to taste)

Instructions

1. 1

   Make the pilaf

   Sauté onion in butter until golden. Add pine nuts, toast briefly. Add rice, allspice, cinnamon, and currants; stir 2 minutes. Add stock, salt, and pepper. Cover and cook on low heat 15 minutes until rice is just cooked. Stir in dill and cool slightly.

2. 2

   Line the pan with fish

   Butter a round ovenproof pan or pot generously. Arrange butterflied anchovies skin-side down, covering the base and sides completely, overlapping slightly.

3. 3

   Fill and top

   Spoon the cooled rice filling into the fish-lined pan. Pack down firmly. Fold any overhanging fish over the rice. Cover the top with more anchovies skin-side up.

   Cover the top completely with fish — this becomes the golden crust when flipped.

4. 4

   Bake

   Cover with foil and bake at 190°C for 25 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10–15 more minutes until the fish on top is golden and crispy.

5. 5

   Invert and serve

   Run a knife around the edge, place a platter on top, and invert dramatically. The golden fish crust should be on top. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

Variations

• •

  Add sautéed mushrooms to the rice filling.

• •

  Use a springform pan for easier unmoulding.

• •

  Sprinkle lemon zest over the finished dish.

Storage

Best eaten freshly baked. Keeps 1 day refrigerated — reheat in a 180°C oven.

Frequently Asked Questions