Harissa (Armenian Wheat and Chicken Porridge)

About This Recipe

Armenian harissa has nothing to do with the North African chili paste that shares its name — this harissa is a hearty, ivory-colored porridge made from whole wheat berries simmered for hours with chicken or lamb until the grains break down and the whole pot is beaten with a wooden paddle into a thick, almost risotto-like mass. It is classic feast food, historically served at church gatherings, weddings, and memorial meals (madagh) in Armenian villages, where communities would gather around enormous cauldrons stirred continuously overnight. The result is deeply savory and comforting, with a texture somewhere between porridge and pulled meat stew, finished with a generous pool of melted butter and a dusting of cumin or paprika. It rewards patience: the longer it cooks and the more it's beaten, the silkier and more unified the dish becomes.

Ingredients

Serves 6

• 500 ghulled wheat berries(soaked overnight)
• 1.2 kgbone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
• 2.5 literswater
• 1yellow onion, halved
• 2bay leaves
• 2 tspsalt, plus more to taste
• 6 tbspunsalted butter, melted
• 1 tspground cumin
• 1 tspsweet paprika
• freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. 1

   Soak the wheat

   Rinse wheat berries and soak overnight in plenty of cold water; drain before cooking.

2. 2

   Simmer the chicken

   Place chicken, onion, bay leaves, and water in a large heavy pot. Bring to a boil, skim the foam, then reduce to a gentle simmer for 1 hour until the chicken is falling off the bone.

3. 3

   Shred and strain

   Remove chicken, discard skin and bones, and shred the meat finely. Strain and reserve the broth, discarding the onion and bay leaves.

4. 4

   Add the wheat

   Return the broth to the pot with the drained wheat berries and salt. Bring to a simmer, cover partially, and cook 2 to 2.5 hours, stirring occasionally, until the wheat is fully tender and starting to break apart.

5. 5

   Return the chicken

   Stir the shredded chicken back into the pot. Continue simmering 20–30 minutes so the flavors meld.

6. 6

   Beat until smooth

   Using a wooden spoon or a hand whisk, vigorously beat the porridge for 10–15 minutes until the wheat breaks down and the mixture becomes a thick, cohesive, almost paste-like porridge. Add a splash of hot water if it seizes up.

7. 7

   Season and finish

   Taste and adjust salt. Ladle into bowls, then pour melted butter over each portion and dust with cumin, paprika, and black pepper.

Variations

• •

  Substitute lamb shoulder for chicken for a richer, more traditional village-style harissa.

• •

  Some regions add a spoonful of tomato paste toward the end for a subtle tang and color.

• •

  A vegetarian version simmers the wheat in vegetable broth with butter and mushrooms instead of meat.

Storage

Refrigerate in an airtight container up to 4 days. Reheat gently on the stovetop with a splash of water or broth, stirring often, as it thickens significantly once chilled.

Frequently Asked Questions