Smoky Armenian lamb skewers marinated in onion and pomegranate, grilled over open coals and served with lavash and fresh herbs.
Khorovats is the centerpiece of Armenian outdoor gatherings — chunks of lamb shoulder marinated for a full day in grated onion, black pepper, and sometimes a splash of pomegranate juice or vinegar, then threaded onto long metal skewers and grilled directly over hardwood coals until the fat renders and the edges char. The onion marinade is key: it tenderizes the meat and perfumes it without masking the lamb's flavor, unlike heavier spice-forward kebabs from neighboring cuisines. Traditionally, khorovats is a communal, unhurried affair — someone tends the fire for hours while tomatoes, eggplant, and green peppers grill alongside the meat. The finished skewers are pulled straight off the fire onto a platter lined with soft lavash, which soaks up the juices, and eaten wrapped with the grilled vegetables, raw onion rings dusted with sumac, and a scatter of fresh tarragon or basil. The char on the outside and the tender, faintly sweet interior are what separate a properly made khorovats from an ordinary grilled kebab — that contrast is the whole point.
Serves 6
In a large bowl, combine lamb cubes with grated onion and its juice, pomegranate juice, vinegar, olive oil, black pepper, salt, and bay leaves. Massage well, cover, and refrigerate 12-24 hours.
Light a charcoal or wood fire and let it burn down to glowing embers with no open flame — this takes 30-45 minutes and is essential for even, smoky cooking.
Remove lamb from the marinade, shaking off excess onion (it will burn if left on). Thread onto flat metal skewers, packing pieces snugly with minimal gaps.
Grill skewers 4-5cm above the embers, turning every 3-4 minutes, for 18-22 minutes total until deeply charred outside and just pink at the center.
Alongside the lamb, grill the tomatoes, eggplant, and peppers until blistered and soft, about 10-15 minutes, turning occasionally.
Rest the skewers 5 minutes off the heat, tented loosely with foil.
Slide the meat off the skewers onto warm lavash. Peel and mash the grilled vegetables lightly with a fork for a simple relish. Serve with sliced red onion, tarragon, and a dusting of sumac.
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Shake excess grated onion off the meat before skewering — wet onion clinging to the skewer chars bitter and black before the lamb is done.
Use lamb shoulder, not leg — the marbling keeps the meat juicy over direct fire; leaner cuts dry out and toughen.
Pack the cubes tightly on the skewer with no gaps; loose spacing lets heat escape and the meat cooks unevenly.
If pomegranate juice isn't available, a splash of dry red wine gives a similar acidic backbone.
Pork khorovats (khoravats khozi) uses the same onion marinade with pork shoulder and is equally traditional in Armenia.
Chicken thigh khorovats cooks faster (12-14 minutes) and is popular for weeknight grilling.
Some regions add a few tablespoons of Armenian brandy (cognac) to the marinade for extra depth.
Leftover meat keeps refrigerated up to 3 days; reheat gently in a covered skillet with a splash of water to avoid drying it out. Grilled vegetables keep 2 days and are excellent cold, mashed into a spread.
Khorovats has been the backbone of Armenian celebratory meals for generations, closely tied to the country's mountainous terrain where open-fire cooking with hardwood was practical and abundant. It is inseparable from Armenian family gatherings, church holidays, and the tradition of tamada-led toasting that accompanies the meal.
A gas grill works in a pinch, but you lose the wood-smoke character that defines khorovats. If using gas, add a smoker box with soaked wood chips and grill on high heat with the lid up.
This usually means the lamb wasn't marinated long enough, or it was cooked over flames instead of glowing embers, which scorches the outside before the inside tenderizes. Give it the full 12+ hours and cook only once flames have died down.
You'll lose the smokiness, but broiling skewers 10cm from a hot broiler for 15-18 minutes, turning twice, gets you close in flavor if not in char.
Wrap the meat, mashed grilled vegetables, raw onion, and herbs together in a piece of lavash like a soft taco, and eat it standing around the fire while the next batch grills.
Per serving (320g / 11.3 oz) · 6 servings total
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