Sindhi Biryani (Pakistani Layered Rice)

About This Recipe

Sindhi biryani is the most identifiably Pakistani of all biryanis: spicier than Hyderabadi, more tomato-forward than Lucknowi, and uniquely scented with dried plums (aloo bukhara) and prunes that melt into the masala. Mutton is slow-cooked with yogurt, browned onions, and a heavy bloom of green chilies until fall-apart tender; the gravy goes wet and red. Parboiled basmati is layered above and below the meat, with mint, coriander, fried onion, and saffron milk crowning the pot, which is then sealed and steamed (dum) until the rice grains stand long and dry but soaked through with the gravy's heat. In Karachi, every household and rail vendor has a slightly different recipe — Sindhi biryani is the city's culinary identity card.

Ingredients

Serves 6

• 1 kgbone-in mutton (goat or lamb shoulder), 4 cm pieces
• 500 gaged basmati rice, soaked 30 minutes
• 3 largeonions, thinly sliced
• 4 mediumtomatoes, chopped
• 200 gthick plain yogurt
• 8green chilies, 4 slit and 4 left whole
• 8dried plums (aloo bukhara) or 6 prunes
• 3 tbspginger-garlic paste
• 2 tspred chili powder
• 1 tspground turmeric
• 2 tbspSindhi biryani masala (Shan or National brand)
• 1 tspgaram masala
• 4green cardamoms
• 4cloves
• 2 stickscinnamon
• 2bay leaves
• 150 mlvegetable oil or ghee
• 1 bunchfresh mint, chopped
• 1 bunchfresh coriander, chopped
• 1 pinchsaffron soaked in 3 tbsp warm milk
• 1 tspkewra or rose water
• 1 tbspsalt for meat

Instructions

1. 1

   Brown the onions

   Heat oil in a heavy pot. Fry sliced onions over medium heat for 15 minutes until deep golden brown. Remove two-thirds with a slotted spoon and drain on paper — these are for layering.

2. 2

   Cook the masala base

   To the remaining onion-oil add cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and bay. Bloom 30 seconds. Add ginger-garlic paste; cook 1 minute. Add mutton; sear all sides for 8 minutes.

3. 3

   Add yogurt and spices

   Reduce heat. Whisk yogurt smooth and stir in. Add chili powder, turmeric, Sindhi biryani masala, and salt. Cook 5 minutes until oil separates.

4. 4

   Add tomato and slow-cook

   Add chopped tomatoes and slit green chilies. Cook covered on low for 50 minutes until mutton is fork-tender and gravy is thick and red. Stir in dried plums for the final 10 minutes.

5. 5

   Parboil rice

   Bring a large pot of water to a hard boil. Add 1 tbsp salt and the drained rice. Cook 6 minutes only — rice should be 70% done, still firm in the center. Drain immediately.

6. 6

   Layer the biryani

   In a heavy pot, spread half the parboiled rice. Top with all the mutton masala. Scatter half the fried onions, half the mint, and half the coriander. Add remaining rice. Top with remaining onions, herbs, whole green chilies, saffron milk, and kewra water. Drizzle 2 tbsp ghee over.

7. 7

   Seal and steam (dum)

   Cover tightly — wrap a damp tea towel under the lid for a tight seal. Cook on the lowest possible flame for 25 minutes. Place a tava (flat skillet) under the pot if your stove runs hot.

   If you can smell biryani strongly from across the room, the seal is leaking — tighten it.

8. 8

   Rest and fold

   Off heat, leave sealed 10 more minutes. Then open and gently fold from the bottom up with a flat spoon to distribute meat — never stir, which breaks the rice. Serve with raita and lemon wedges.

Variations

• •

  Karachi street-stall versions use beef instead of mutton.

• •

  Add 4 small boiled potatoes between layers for extra heft.

• •

  Vegetarian Sindhi-style biryani uses chickpeas, mixed vegetables, and the same masala base.

Storage

Refrigerate up to 3 days. Reheat sprinkled with 2 tbsp water, covered, in the microwave on medium, or in a 160°C oven for 15 minutes — never high heat, which dries the rice.

Frequently Asked Questions