Khachapuri, khinkali, satsivi – vin, noix et tradition supra-festive du Caucase.
La cuisine géorgienne est issue du carrefour du Caucase entre la mer Noire et la route de la soie, et elle s'organise autour du supra, la fête rituelle dirigée par un toastmaster (tamada) où la table se remplit bord à bord. Ses plats les plus exportés sont le khachapuri, le pain fourré au fromage dont la version adjarie arrive sous forme de bateau ouvert avec un œuf cru et du beurre mélangés à la table, et le khinkali, des boulettes de soupe torsadées à base de viande épicée mangées à la main, le bouillon d'abord, le chignon laissé dans l'assiette.
La signature gustative est unique dans la région : noix moulues en sauces (satsivi pour la volaille, bazhe et tartinades roulées dans les aubergines nigvziani badrijani), sauce tkemali aux prunes aigres et le mélange d'épices khmeli suneli à base de fenugrec bleu (utskho suneli), de souci séché et de coriandre. La Géorgie occidentale – Samegrelo et Imereti – s’appuie sur le maïs (bouillie de ghomi, pain mchadi) et la pâte de piment adjika plus piquante ; l'Orient privilégie le pain de blé et la viande cuite au four en terre cuite.
La Géorgie revendique également huit mille ans de vinification dans des récipients en argile qvevri enterrés, une méthode classée au patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO, et le vin est indissociable de la culture culinaire. Les cuisiniers à domicile terminent les ragoûts comme le chakhokhbili (poulet aux tomates et aux herbes) avec des poignées de coriandre fraîche, d'estragon et de basilic violet, et conservent la récolte sous forme de churchkhela - des noix trempées dans du jus de raisin épaissi - et des pots d'adjika et de tkemali.
Khachapuri
Pains fourrés au fromage sous des formes régionales : Imeruli circulaire, Megruli au double fromage et le bateau adjarien surmonté d'œufs.
Khinkali
Dumplings torsadés à la main à base de viande poivrée et de bouillon, mangés à la main avec le chignon pâteux laissé dans l'assiette.
Sauces aux noix
Les noix moulues épaississent les rouleaux d'aubergines satsivi, bazhe et badrijani, donnant à la nourriture géorgienne sa profondeur tannique riche et singulière.
Khmeli suneli et fenugrec bleu
Le mélange d'épices déterminant de fenugrec bleu, de souci séché et de coriandre assaisonne les ragoûts, les sauces et l'adjika.
Tkemali et adjika
Sauce aux prunes aigres et pâte de chili et d'ail fermentée – les deux condiments de table qui aiguisent les viandes, les haricots et les pommes de terre.
Vin supra et qvevri
Le festin dirigé par le toastmaster et la vinification dans des récipients en argile vieux de huit millénaires encadrent la façon dont la nourriture géorgienne est réellement consommée.
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Georgia's most iconic dish — a boat-shaped bread filled with bubbling melted sulguni cheese, topped with a raw egg and a knob of butter. Broken into strips and dipped.
Georgia's deeply fragrant braised chicken — pieces simmered in a tomato and onion sauce with fenugreek, coriander and blue fenugreek, finished with a shower of fresh herbs.
Georgia's hearty flatbread stuffed with spiced kidney beans and fried onions — baked until golden. The earthy, satisfying bread of Racha and Georgian mountain villages.
Georgia's most popular outdoor cooking tradition — chunks of pork neck marinated simply in onion and pomegranate juice, grilled over vine wood coals until charred outside and juicy within.
Georgian walnut and herb balls made from spinach, beetroot or green beans — a stunning mezze classic.
Georgian candle-shaped candy made from grape juice and walnuts — a traditional energy-dense snack.
Georgian spicy braised beef with tomatoes, herbs and a fiery kick from dried chillies.
Georgian spring lamb stew with tarragon, green plums, and herbs — the centrepiece of Easter celebrations.
Georgian bean-stuffed flatbread — a hearty, satisfying cousin of khachapuri filled with spiced kidney beans.
Hand-pleated Georgian dumplings filled with spiced meat broth — eaten by holding the topknot, biting carefully and slurping the soup inside.
Pan-fried chicken bathed in a sauce of milk and an enormous quantity of crushed garlic — Georgia's most extraordinary garlic dish.
Fried aubergine slices rolled around a savoury walnut-garlic-pomegranate filling — Georgia's most iconic vegetarian dish.
Spiced kidney bean stew with walnut, coriander and pomegranate — Georgia's national bean dish, served with cornbread.
Chicken in a thick, spiced walnut sauce with garlic, coriander and saffron — Georgia's iconic Christmas and New Year dish.
Georgia's everyday cornbread — pan-fried until the edges turn crisp and golden while the inside stays dense and tender. The daily bread of Imereti, always served with beans or cheese.
Round, sealed cheese-filled bread with a single slash on top — the everyday khachapuri of central Georgia.
Spatchcocked chicken pressed flat under a weight and pan-fried until impossibly crispy outside, juicy inside — Georgia's signature pressed chicken.
Pork and potatoes pan-fried with onions and peppers — Georgia's most beloved family-style dish, named for its purpose: shared.
String of walnuts dipped repeatedly in thickened grape juice — Georgia's natural candy, traditionally made at autumn harvest.
Charred aubergine and pepper with walnuts, herbs, garlic and pomegranate — a smoky cold mezze for the Georgian feast table.
Boat-shaped Georgian cheese bread crowned with a molten egg yolk and butter — tear the crust, swirl it into the filling, and dip.
Twisted Georgian dumplings holding spiced meat and hot broth — pinch the topknot, sip the soup, eat the rest.
Georgia's beloved cheese boat — pillowy yeasted bread shaped into a vessel, filled with melted sulguni and imeruli cheese, and topped at the table with a raw egg yolk and a knob of butter.
Georgian Market Lemon Herb Rice Bowl brings georgian flavor to a practical rice bowl built with chicken thighs, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Village Smoky Tomato Soup brings georgian flavor to a practical soup built with mushrooms, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Garden Sesame Lime Skillet brings georgian flavor to a practical skillet dinner built with cauliflower, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Harbor Charred Pepper Noodles brings georgian flavor to a practical noodle dish built with rice noodles, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Mountain Green Herb Salad brings georgian flavor to a practical salad built with grilled chicken, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Festival Lemon Herb Flatbread brings georgian flavor to a practical flatbread built with flatbread dough, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Homestyle Smoky Tomato Traybake brings georgian flavor to a practical traybake built with sweet potatoes, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Street Sesame Lime Fritters brings georgian flavor to a practical fritters built with salted fish, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Golden Charred Pepper Breakfast Plate brings georgian flavor to a practical breakfast plate built with beans, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Georgian Weeknight Green Herb Dessert brings georgian flavor to a practical dessert built with coconut, walnuts, coriander, blue fenugreek and cheese, and a fresh cilantro finish.
Boat-shaped yeasted bread filled with molten cheese and topped with a raw egg yolk and butter, stirred together at the table.
Hand-twisted dumplings filled with spiced, juicy ground meat and broth, meant to be picked up by the topknot and slurped carefully.
A round, flat yeasted bread stuffed with a filling of tangy Imeretian cheese, baked until golden with a soft, cheesy interior.
Chicken pieces slow-braised with tomatoes, onions and a generous amount of fresh herbs until deeply savory, a beloved Georgian home-cooked dish.
A hearty, tangy beef soup thickened with rice and ground walnuts, spiced with fenugreek and a sour plum sauce called tkemali.
Red kidney beans slow-simmered with onions, walnuts and Georgian spices until thick and richly flavored, often served in individual clay pots.
Walnuts threaded on a string and repeatedly dipped in thickened grape juice paste until coated into a chewy, candle-shaped candy.
Cubed pork and potatoes pan-fried together with onions until crisp and browned, a hearty Georgian family dinner served sizzling.
Blanched spinach or other vegetables finely chopped and bound with ground walnuts, garlic and vinegar into a dense, savory spread.
Poached chicken served cold, coated in a rich, garlicky walnut sauce spiced with marigold and coriander, a classic Georgian New Year dish.
Chunks of marinated pork threaded onto skewers and grilled over open flame or hot coals, a beloved Georgian barbecue tradition.
Eggplant, bell peppers and tomatoes braised together with garlic and herbs into a rich, hearty vegetable stew, a Georgian summer favorite.
Thin fried eggplant slices rolled around a garlicky ground walnut paste, garnished with pomegranate seeds, a beloved cold Georgian starter.
Dense yeasted bread stuffed with heavily spiced ground meat, baked until golden, a specialty from Georgia's mountainous Svaneti region.
Chicken pieces pan-fried until golden, then simmered in an intensely garlicky milk and cream sauce, a beloved dish from Racha, Georgia.
Grape leaves rolled around a spiced rice and ground meat filling, simmered gently and served with a tangy garlic-yogurt sauce.
A stretchy, cheese-laden cornmeal porridge from Georgia's Samegrelo region, stirred until it forms long, elastic cheese strings.
A tangy, garlicky sauce made from sour green or red plums, simmered with herbs, a staple condiment for grilled meats across Georgia.
A dense, cheese-studded cornmeal flatbread from Georgia's mountainous Svaneti region, pan-fried until golden and slightly crisp.
Saffron-tinted rice pilaf layered with lamb, carrots and dried fruit, finished with toasted walnuts and sesame for a Georgian take on plov.
Soft yeasted flatbread stuffed with a spiced, mashed red bean filling, the Georgian relative of khachapuri known as lobiani.
Coarsely ground pork mixed with pomegranate seeds, garlic and Georgian spices, shaped into patties and pan-seared, a home-style take on kupati sausage.
Red kidney beans simmered slowly with walnuts, tomato and coriander, the hearty everyday Georgian bean stew known as lobio.
Eggs poached directly into a bubbling, spicy tomato and pepper sauce, the rustic Georgian skillet dish known as chirbuli.
Thick, smooth cornmeal porridge simmered until spoonable, traditionally served alongside sulguni cheese, a staple from Georgia's western Samegrelo region.
Whole trout baked simply, then served with a rich walnut and pomegranate sauce, a Georgian pairing that balances freshwater fish with the country's iconic nut sauces.
Layers of boiled pasta sheets baked with butter and cheese into a rich, tender casserole, the indulgent Georgian pastry known as achma.
Chopped tomato and cucumber tossed in a tangy walnut and herb dressing, a fresh Georgian side salad that always appears at a supra table.
The rich, peppery broth that fills traditional khinkali dumplings, served here as a soup with mini dumplings simmered directly in the pot.
Chicken pieces simmered slowly in a thick, herb-heavy tomato sauce with garlic and coriander, the classic Georgian stew known as chakhokhbili.
Eggplant, pepper and tomato baked together with garlic and herbs, the hearty Georgian vegetable stew known as ajapsandali, finished under the broiler.
Walnut halves dipped repeatedly in thickened grape juice and hung to dry, forming Georgia's iconic chewy candlestick-shaped candy, churchkhela.
Crisp cornmeal pancakes in the style of Georgian mchadi, pan-fried in butter and served with tangy sour cream.
A hearty Georgian-style bulgur bowl topped with roasted vegetables and a garlicky walnut sauce sweetened with honey.
A garlicky saffron rice pilaf studded with shrimp, inspired by Georgian rice pilafs (plovi) served along the Black Sea coast.
A warming Georgian red lentil soup bowl brightened with lime and a garlicky herb topping, served over rice.
Bell peppers filled with a garlicky walnut and herb mixture, a cold Georgian appetizer style adapted into a full plate.
A rich, layered Georgian cheese casserole built from pasta sheets, melted sulguni-style cheese and a garlicky butter finish.
A juicy spiced beef and pork burger inspired by Georgian kebabi, grilled and served with a sharp onion and herb topping.
A stretchy, garlicky cornmeal pudding in the style of Georgian elarji, made with cheese melted directly into the polenta.
A festive Georgian-style roast chicken plate finished with a spicy garlic sauce, served with rice and fresh herbs.
La cuisine géorgienne est connue pour ses pains au fromage khachapuri, ses boulettes de soupe khinkali, ses sauces à base de noix comme le satsivi, le tkemali aux prunes aigres et ses ragoûts aux herbes comme le chakhokhbili. Il est également célèbre pour la tradition des supra fêtes dirigées par un maître de toast et pour la vinification du qvevri, une méthode vieille de huit mille ans dans des récipients en argile reconnue par l'UNESCO.
Ramassez la boulette par son nœud pâteux avec vos doigts – jamais avec une fourchette, qui renverserait le bouillon. Mordez un petit trou sur le côté, sirotez le bouillon chaud, puis mangez le reste en assaisonnant de poivre noir. Le chignon épais est laissé sur l’assiette ; traditionnellement, cela sert à compter la quantité que vous avez mangée. Les couverts sont considérés comme une erreur de débutant.
La plupart du temps non, à une exception près. La cuisine géorgienne orientale est aromatique – fenugrec bleu, coriandre, souci, estragon frais et basilic – avec peu de piquant. Les régions occidentales comme Samegrelo utilisent l'adjika, une pâte fermentée de piment rouge et d'ail, et les plats y peuvent être vraiment chauds. À la plupart des tables, la chaleur est un choix de condiment : l'adjika et le tkemali sont placés à côté de la nourriture plutôt qu'à l'intérieur.
Imeruli khachapuri est le début le plus indulgent : une pâte molle à base de yaourt remplie d'un mélange de fromage salé (la mozzarella et la feta se rapprochent du fromage imérétien) et cuite au four. Le chakhokhbili – poulet braisé avec des tomates, des oignons et une dernière douche de coriandre et de basilic – est le ragoût le plus simple. Le Lobio, une compote de haricots rouges avec des noix et des herbes, est une option végétarienne intéressante.
Le khachapuri est un pain géorgien fourré au fromage, traditionnellement préparé avec du fromage imérétien ou sulguni en saumure. Imeruli est une ronde fermée avec du fromage à l'intérieur ; Megruli ajoute une deuxième couche de fromage sur le dessus ; Adjaruli (Adjarian) est un bateau ouvert terminé avec un jaune d'œuf cru et du beurre, mélangé au fromage fondu à table et mangé en arrachant la croûte pour la tremper.
